To answer my own question, an Asus BT400 worked perfectly out of the box.
To answer my own question, an Asus BT400 worked perfectly out of the box.
I have two A95X B7N which do not have built in bluetooth. I'd like to buy a pair of USB bluetooth dongles to pair with earbuds for late night watching.
The only dongle I have is a generic "Bluetooth 2.0 EDR" stick from years ago - it doesn't seem to be recognized, but no great loss.
Can someone suggest (or provide a link) to an aliexpress/Amazon or other cheap source of working usb bluetooth receivers? Not too concerned about delivery time.
Amazon has one for $4.99 w/Prime (Xosido) which I can buy, but I'm hoping for something non hit-or-miss.
Additionally, is there any way to pre-judge what should work and what won't (BT 2.0, BT 5.0 sticks, etc)?
I went ahead and deleted the wifi_xxxxxxxx directories in the directory. My mom can type her password in once the unit sees her 'new' SSID. Everything seemed to work on my end, and that's how I delivered it originally.
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Thanks; I'll give it a try when the SD chip comes in - I'll set it for various 2.4GHz networks around my house and see if I get a connection upon reboot. All my devices use wired connections, so it should be a useful test.
Then, hopefully, when I return it to my Mom, she'll be plug and play - I know she's not editing Linux files from her PC.
I'm certainly not shy; my question is:
Is there a specific file which will be in the directory (I haven't received the card yet) and do I just substitute the new SSID/password or am I creating a new file for the new SSID? Are there multiple files/1 for each SSID the system has encountered, etc.?
Just looking for more guidance since I will be editing the SD card and sending it back without being able to test it on *her* system. I get one shot to get it right.
Yes, it was BS - but I'm several thousand miles away and that's too far to call it on a guy who likely doesn't care.
Can I simply edit whatever file is in the directory, mglae, or do I need to create a new file/etc?
I set my mom up with an S905 box and configured her so that she could stream all the grandkids videos, vacation stuff, etc. It was all working well until her Brighthouse cable modem died.
The repair guy set her up with a new modem and (I believe) her old SSID but a new password - for some reason 'he couldn't set it up like it was'.
I had her mail me the microSD card and I'll have it tomorrow. I have an identical box at my house, so I can pop her chip in mine and boot it.
What file can I edit to *add* her new SSID/passphrase so that it will 'automagically' work when she puts it back into her Kodi box?
I have an A95X with a S905X chip in it. I've only used it for wired, but it's now moving to a new location with wifi only. I purchased an external antenna and lead (2.4 only). I'm going to have a friend do the soldering, but need a little help.
The antenna lead came with an 'end' attached which I will cut off. I understand that I need to strip the wire and I'll end up with a 'core' and the 'outside wires' (obviously I don't know the correct terminology).
From the picture (which shows the built-in, but pretty lousy signal strength antenna), can anyone tell me which part of the new lead gets soldered where? Does it matter? Under magnification, it *looks* to me like the core goes to the interior of the board and the 'outside wires' go at the bottom.
Anything I really need to know here? Posts of similar mods have (from my googling) lost all of the associated pictures.
Once you've pressed the wrong button and moved away from full screen video, pressing left arrow will bring you into the options screen. At the top is the 'full screen' icon (on the right I think). Pressing this will restore full screen video.
I'm running LibreElec 8.01k (I think) using a fast SD card. I'm looking to buy another box, but don't know if there is any advantage to buying one with 2/16 GB of memory over 1/8 GB since I'm only running LibreElec plus a few addins (like the MythTV frontend).
I may at some time install to internal, but the current performance doesn't bother me in the least.
There is a thread Create Remote.conf from scratch which shows you how to get your remote.conf file working to your liking (ie you can have any key (except power, perhaps) perform any Kodi action).
You'll want to follow all the steps, but basically, you will:
1. fire up two copies of putty on your PC and log into your libreelec box
2. using nano, create remote.conf in /storage/.config (nano /storage/.config/remote.conf and copy the template of remote.conf into this file
3. following the directions, you'll press a remote button and the second window will tell you the 'code' for that button; you'll put that code against the KODI 'name' for that button.
Good luck, and it isn't that hard.
can someone help me with this Remote?
It has a stop, a kodi and a play/pause Button and i do not know how to get it working on libreelec.
It is a x96 Android Box.
On android the kodi button is the stop button and vice versa - so i need all 3 please.
Have you looked at the the thread: Create remote.conf from scratch thread?
You'll need to connect to your box via a program named 'putty.exe' available on the PC. Basically you'll be pressing a button on the remote, reading the response in a putty window to that button press and entering that response against the action you want that button to have. If pressing the OK button generated code ABC, you'd enter ABC against OK in the remote.conf file you are building in the second window. Copy and paste the 'sample' remote.conf in the code section at the top of the thread and fill in the blanks. READ THE DIRECTIONS CAREFULLY. You won't break anything by doing it wrong, but you'll waste your time on stupidity (I'm good at that).
It should take you less than 1/2 hour to follow the directions and end up with each button doing exactly what you want (assuming what you want actually matches a KODI-defined button press (ie you can't press a button and hope it orders batteries via Amazon; it will control volume, forward/rewind, etc.).
I loved this tutorial. Thank you!
I 'rebuilt' my QBox S905 remote. I have the remote in post #22.
I have a few questions on the button items.
The sample remote.conf file has this set of lines:
This helps define left, right, up, down and OK
further below, there is the code segment
which appears redundant - codes are the same. Is it redundant, and why is it shown twice if it is?
I'm not sure, and perhaps someone can offer an explanation of what the following buttons do?
Thrird, what is the difference between (for example):
Finally, are there any other mappable functions via the remote (for LibreElec) which may not be shown in the sample but are mappable with my remote?
Ok, take a deep breath.
Were you successful in breathing? Good, you have the technical skills to do this, then.
Googling Win32DiskImager for Mac turned up several alternatives - ApplePi-Baker was one. You'll have to do some googling if that doesn't work.
Download whichever version of LibreElec you want. In the thread (presently called) [8.0.1j] LibreELEC 8.0 for S905/S905X (the j is the most current) there is a top thread (post 1) which lists the versions (a-j), a changelog of sorts and their download location. From this link you can download the files (link is listed next to 'Downloads'). For the image, use the .img.gz file. You'll need to 'unzip' this file with whatever tool one uses on a Mac. On a PC it's WinZip or 7-Zip or a number of other choices.
You'll now have a .img file on your machine. Use ApplePi-Baker or your other 'image burner' software to create the SD card version to put in your device. Don't just copy it, it has to be 'burned' to have the layout correct - like not trying to just copy a .ISO file onto a CD and thinking that will recreate the original. This is what ApplePi-Baker or Rufus does with the .img file.
OK, now, in the same thread and same location as the link to the images, there is a link to the device trees. You'll need to download the right device tree. Effectively, this tells the software (version j in our case) about the hardware your specific device uses (bluetooth, network chip, wifi) so that it operates correctly. Some S905/S905X have non supported components (bluetooth or wifi); you shouldn't have to worry about these with your device. The device tree file you want to download is above in my original response. You'll change the name (as in the original post) and copy it to the root directory of the now formatted SD Card (this replaces the 'generic' or not-for-your-machine version which is there from the .img file by default).
Now, just follow the directions above (toothpick, etc.) and 'poof'.
Download the latest image of the 8.0 branch. Use either Win32DiskImager or Rufus to copy it to an SD drive. Download the device tree file: gxl_p212_1g.dtb.
Rename it dtb.img and copy it over the file with the same name on your SD card.
Unplug your device. Insert the SD card. Using a toothpick (I use a QTip cut in half) push it into the AV slot - you'll hear the reset button click down. While holding the button down, plug the device in.
LibreElec will come up onscreen and you can remove and dispose of the toothpick/QTip.
My remote is this: .
After connecting to LibreELEC through ssh, I opened nano, copied ippon's remote.conf code and then saved the file to /storage/.config/remote.conf. I even gave it full permissions, using chmod 777 remote.conf.
So, in one terminal I opened the file, in another I connected through ssh session and run "dmesg -c", pressed the power on button and ran again "dmesg -c", but, I didn't get "
LibreELEC:~ # dmesg -cCode
LibreELEC:~ # dmesg -c [ [email protected]] remote: scancode is 0x0051,invalid key is 0x0000. [ [email protected]] remote: scancode is 0x0051,invalid key is 0x0000. LibreELEC:~ #
You didn't state if, after saving the remote.conf file you typed:
to restart the remote. If so, i'm not sure what else is wrong. The directions worked well for me.
Thanks for all the input.
As I noted, the overscan function on the set is greyed out in the setup menu (and I don't have the service menu password/option).
I used the zoom, and it seems to work fine - it is after all, a bedroom TV. I think it is set at -8% which seems to be a lot.
The Dynex TV, however, was never a top of the line model.