FiveNinjas Slice LibreELEC preview build

  • The CM3 will definitely need some form of heatsink, I get the temp gauge when updating the library, will have a test with some heatsinks this weekend


    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

  • Hi Chewitt,
    I've successufly installed your LibreELEC-Slice.arm-7.90.007.tar by copying it into the update directory on the Slice.


    All seems to be working ok at the moment thanks, including analogue audio, I've even got audioswitcher going so it automatically switches between HDMI audio for video and analogue audio for music files. I'll keep using it for the moment and report back.


    Thanks for your work on this, :-)
    Kevin.

  • Hi Chewitt


    Slightly later than planned, caused by "unplanned sickness", an update for you:


    I have updated my main box and confirm that the audio plays fine using audio switcher (like bleep42). Video plays fine too.
    To clarify, for anyone who does not read the whole thread, my video is only TV series and stereo sound. I am saving the surround sound stuff for when I upgrade to a CM3.


    Thanks for the work on this..... looks good and is quite responsive when compared with the current Five Ninjas stable build (using older versions of Libreelec and Kodi).


    Roger

  • I have just installed and been testing the latest .tar install on the Slice (original).
    It all seems to be working well, with a noticeable improvement in response and playback.


    It should be very interesting with a CM3 upgrade!


    Thank you all for your hard work, your efforts are very much appreciated.

  • I've posted v7.90.008 builds to Index of /slice/ for testing (manual update only at the moment). There appears to be an issue with S/PDIF 5.1 output on CM3 boards but Gordon is aware and investigating (optical 2.0 output is fine). I'm also going to look at adding the lirc disable function one night this week as having one remote driving two boxes is becoming annoying.

  • Ive added a much larger film collection to the library and it has slowed it down a little (I suspect the limitations of the installed CM1).


    I have also noticed that only some of the "collections" have scrapped correctly.
    I don't remember having to correct them on previous upgrades etc, it must be the scraper files, as i can't see it being anything to do with the build?


  • The CM3 will definitely need some form of heatsink, I get the temp gauge when updating the library, will have a test with some heatsinks this weekend


    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


    This is my solution to the CM3 heat problem... Its a few layers of copper sheet cut with heatsink compound between each layer and then araldite applied around the outside (not between the layers!). Finally some heatsink compound on the 2837 chip on the CM3 and you've got an awesome heatsink...



    Gordon

  • This is my solution to the CM3 heat problem... Its a few layers of copper sheet cut with heatsink compound between each layer and then araldite applied around the outside (not between the layers!). Finally some heatsink compound on the 2837 chip on the CM3 and you've got an awesome heatsink...




    Gordon


    Gordon,
    Have you glued it onto the Slice case, presumably to stop it moving about?
    Thanks
    Keith


  • The CM3 will definitely need some form of heatsink, I get the temp gauge when updating the library, will have a test with some heatsinks this weekend


    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


    Mike, any update on experiments with heatsinks?


    *** edit
    Seems like the post before happened while I was posting here and over on the Five Ninjas forum!


    There should be some flexibility in the heatsink so that there is no undue strain on the soldered conections leading to mechanical breakage as the device is thermally cycled. IMHO :)


    Roger
    [hr]

    This is my solution to the CM3 heat problem... Its a few layers of copper sheet cut with heatsink compound between each layer and then araldite applied around the outside (not between the layers!). Finally some heatsink compound on the 2837 chip on the CM3 and you've got an awesome heatsink...




    Gordon


    Gordon, that seems like a good solution allowing mechanical flexibility and heat transfer, pretty much what I would do if I had an updated CM ! Of course I would be more than happy to test one :D
    Roger

    Edited once, last by g7ruh ().

  • I have tested a standard RPi heatsink and it helped a little, I am now awaiting delivery of a ceramic finned heatsink.


    I like Gordon's idea to have copper between the CPU and case, need to see if can measure the gap between the 2 to get a block machined in the ceramic one is not enough


  • if can measure the gap between the 2





    Mike, maybe blutack or suchlike will work as long as it is nearly the right thickness and is left for a while to spread to provide the thickness to be measured unless....:


    Gordon, have you calculated the heatsink thickness? That would be more accurate.


    Roger

  • I've already done something similar to this for my current Slice, so I can over clock it a bit.
    I used a standard small square heat sink that I trimmed and filed to fit between the chip and the lid, unfortunately, because the CM1 has the memory stacked on top, I suspect that the gap between chip and lid will change on CM3. :-(
    Regards, Kevin.


  • I used a standard small square heat sink that I trimmed and filed to fit between the chip and the lid, unfortunately, because the CM1 has the memory stacked on top, I suspect that the gap between chip and lid will change on CM3. :-(
    Regards, Kevin.


    Kevin, I suspect you are correct. My main concern for wanting a 'more exact' measurement is the need to ensure there is no mechanical strain on the CPU which could cause the solder joints to fracture during hot / cold cycling as the assembly expands and contracts. (These days manufacturing HAS to use the lead-free solder, which in my experience, is much less "flexible" than the good old lead-based stuff, and is much more likely to fracture or develop a 'dry joint'. Under a microscope lead-free solder has a much more crystaline structure than the good old stuff).


    The Five Ninjas may well have some prototype Slice cases which can be cut e.g. half way across the CPU to determine the thickness more accurately and then, if we are lucky and ask nicely (pretty please :) ), may be able to provide a CM3 and heatsink for the upgrade.


    A sticky thermal transfer pad would also work to help reduce mechanical strain, depending on the width of the gap, but not as efficient as a lump of copper and good quality heat sink compound.



    Another thought: have you a hard drive installed in the case? If so have you monitored the HD temperature after your Slice has been running hard for a while? I don't push my Slice hard, I only use it for audio playback and lower resolution video at present.


    Roger


  • Hi Roger,
    I do have a disk installed, the case only gets very slightly warm, (28C top of case, with CPU at 55C) so I don't forsee any heat related problems, the case is a big metal sink and radiator.
    You need to remember that the CPU is on a board, which is slotted into a memory style connector, when you put the board in, it is inserted in the socket at an angle, say 30Deg to the main circuit board and then pressed down until it clicks in place, approximately parallel with the main circuit board, (see Gordons photo) so there is quite a lot of up/down 'spring' in the CM board, which will easily take up any thermal expansion, it will mean you can't make the heat sink to CPU thermal connection very tight, just touching, with thermal paste as a buffer, will be the way to go.
    Regards, Kevin.

    Edited once, last by bleep42 ().

  • Hi Roger,
    I do have a disk installed, the case only gets very slightly warm, (28C top of case, with CPU at 55C) so I don't forsee any heat related problems, the case is a big metal sink and radiator.
    You need to remember that the CPU is on a board, which is slotted into a memory style connector, when you put the board in, it is inserted in the socket at an angle, say 30Deg to the main circuit board and then pressed down until it clicks in place, approximately parallel with the main circuit board, (see Gordons photo) so there is quite a lot of up/down 'spring' in the CM board, which will easily take up any thermal expansion, it will mean you can't make the heat sink to CPU thermal connection very tight, just touching, with thermal paste as a buffer, will be the way to go.
    Regards, Kevin.


    I am using the following at the moment


    AMEC THERMASOL - FCH25255T - HEAT SINK, 25MMX25MMX5MM, CERAMIC | CPC UK


    Its seems to have fixed the temp hitting 80C while updating the library, but i am still not happy with the temps i am getting, just sitting idle its hitting 57C


  • I am using the following at the moment


    SC14059


    Its seems to have fixed the temp hitting 80C while updating the library, but i am still not happy with the temps i am getting, just sitting idle its hitting 57C


    Good point re CPU and board providing the flexibility. Gordon's solution of several sheets of thin copper and heatsink compound will help maintain that.


    Any chance you could try a solution like Gordon's as your quiescent temperature is fairly high? That would provide an indication of the efficiency of each solution at quiescent and load scenarios.


    Roger

  • I am using the following at the moment


    SC14059


    Its seems to have fixed the temp hitting 80C while updating the library, but i am still not happy with the temps i am getting, just sitting idle its hitting 57C


    Hi Mike,


    Yes the problem with a small heatsink is that you are allowing a bit more heat to escape from the CPU, but it's still trapped inside the case, to get significantly better cooling you need the heat sink to touch the case, so an aluminium heat sink like that, but taller, so you can file the top of it, to make it just touch the top of the case, when you screw it together.
    The way I did it, was to balance the heat sink on the cpu and place the lid on, then I kept shortening the heat sink, making sure it was flat, until the lid was just being raised by a fraction of a mm, such that when I tightened the screws it would be just, fractionally pinched (mine is 12mm high, on a CM1). Once you've got it right, apply heat sink goo, and put together. I just rely on the pinch, knowing that the Slice is not going to be moved around, so moving the heat sink, but you could apply a bit of araldite, round it's edge, after coating the top with heatsink compound, like gordon has, to hold it to the lid.
    Good luck,
    Kevin.

    Edited once, last by bleep42 ().