That's good, but if you're not copying content or caching to the card you've barely got a couple of gigs written to it over that time I'd think.
That is the point. To don't mess the "system" card with data. I'm using "small" (32-64GB) SD cards for Libreelec and a bigger USB3 stick for any data (speed and capacity enogh for me, also energy efficient). As my RPi's running 24/7, I don't care about the boot time... and in that way I don't have headache when need to reinstall the system...
I re open here coz my hard drive is not recognize each time I restart or when I send files from my pc thru network.
The hard drive is no longer available from Libreelec . there is only a message when I unplugeed it.
I try check disk, restart but nothing works.
Hi, two things what you could try it.
1. If that external HDD got enoungh power. If powered from RPi USB port, you should try it with an powered USB hub.
2. Linux + NTFS = trouble. So, every each time when the HDD isn't properly shut down (or insufficient power?), you will need to remove it and go to a Win PC to "repair" it... Maybe once a week... maybe every day... Or, you can change to EXT4 partition and that "reapair" will be resolved automatically by linux. For linux-windows compatibility, you can try the EXFAT format too, maybe a bit less "smart" in the case of error handling.
I'm sure that my harware is working because when I clone my SD on my SSD, my SSD is able to boot fine. Just no have all capacity
Connect again the SSD to PC and use a partition manager program to extend the data partition.
I do not use it in the same room. I mostly use my Kodi as radio. Therefor I use a Bluetooth speaker in the kitchen and in the garden. In such a case an Echo is not important. TV is only a third prioirity. (second is the tv as Diashow)
Is possible to use two bluetooth speakers at the same time? Don't know if the bluetooth is capable for such a thing.
I'm using internet radio in the garden too, for this I have a simple solution, an old smart-phone without sim, without account, only wifi and an app for music (with ability to play net stream - ex. AIMP - android). I like to find new purpose for old smart-phones, another one is used as a perfect desk clock... 
I'm just wondering... in the case of this "simultanous audio output", exist users who really using the audio output in that way? To hear the sound from TV (HDMI) and amplifier or bluetooth spekers in the same time? I tried that and because of the delay differences, the result was a "strange" sound with some kind of "echo".
Don't mean me wrong, if somebody really want it, search for possible solution, experiment, learn meantime... but I think exist a reason why "Kodi don't do and don't offer in the settings" such option.
But since the last two Kodi Updates my via USB 3.2 attached external HDD (NTFS) is no longer visible, accessible nor shared.
Does anyone have a solution
Maybe take a look here: Manage disk partitions on libreelec
A strange Problem. On HDMi I have crackls in the output. Bluetooth is without any problems. At first I assumed, that it works better even if I disconnect the bluetooth device.
I lost a lot of time in the past for that "simultanous audio output", without to find a stable solution without issues. Till I discovered, I didn't want a real simoultaous audio (never used two outputs simultanous). Basically I wanted sound though HDMI for video files and I2S (hifiberry) for music (mostly internet radio). And for this the "Audio Profiles" addon is perfect for me. With a bit of work in the addon settings, it's able to change automatically the audio output based on media type.
I'm using an RPi3B as an always-on NAS (only Ethernet, Raspberry Pi OS). No periodical reboot needed. It just works. I suggest to figure out, which add-on breaks stable usage.
I'm using only one RPi3B with wifi connection (modded for external antenna) and for a time I struggled with the "invalid wifi key" issue. I find in the log (python script to save log - loaded through favourites menu) some avahi-daemon "lines" when the iwd tried to reconnect... so I disabled the "zeroconf" and added that daily reboot cron job. I know, isn't the professional solution, but looks like it's working for me.
Sorry for offtopic...
But in anticipation of it still failing I've got the cron reboot waiting in the wings
I'm using same timeframe, but I have a "reboot sequence", firts reboots the router, then the RPi with the TV server (TVheadend), then the other RPi's, with 10 minutes delay between those. And I think any OS (including the linux too) is good to be rebooted periodically, so then why not every night... Less issues... Less headache.
Hi, I'm using my RPi4B in a similar way, 24/7, LAN, fixed IP, and didn't notice any similar issue. Maybe the difference is, I'm using a cron job to reboot the RPi every night (early morning). Maybe worth to try it...
That way, I won't have to power down the RPi and risk a recurrence of "No Signal" when I power it back up.
When I had the same issue the solution was to save the display data using the command "getedid create" (SSH).
1. For the "No Signal":
Do you have any reason to don't try to save the EDID (display) data from TV? Did you tried to search some info about that command? Maybe to learn something?
When it's working (on the TV you see what should to be see), go to SSH and run that command...
Or don't try it... and wait for... something...
for now I think I'm going to try to track down what is tweaking CEC periodically, which has the effect of turning my tv back on
2. Turning the TV back on:
You could have some "unwanted" reboots (RPi power issue?) and it's activated in the CEC settings to wake up the display at the LE boot. (Settitings - System - Input - Peripherals - CEC - "Devices to power on during startup")
I think Sony did way more with their hdmi control system than they needed to.
It's a standard communication between the video source (RPI) and display (TV) using dedicated wires in the cable (HDMI). Till now I seen two issues, the cable - defective, wrong contact, poor quality, or the display in stand-by don't offer the display data (EDID info) - like my LG TV. You can try 2 simple things, try with another cable, and try to switch on the TV first then the RPi, to be sure the display data it's available.
Will that work when the display signal is off?
No, you need to run that command when the HDMI connection is working (the RPI "seeing" the TV). Do you tried to reboot (or power cycle) the RPi when the TV is switched to that HDMI input (displaying the "no signal" message)?
Hi, usually the HDMI is "turned on" only if at the boot is detected a compatibile display (HDMI cable issue, display in stand-by when the LE booting...). Between LE v9 and v11 was major changes, probably the newer version is more "stricter" to get the display information (EDID data). When I had the same issue the solution was to save the display data using the command "getedid create" (SSH).
Hi, did you tried this: https://kodi.wiki/view/SMB
I can't access to .kodi folder on my Libreelec installation.
Settings/Media/General - Official Kodi Wiki
I've done this three times with same results. Maybe there is enough info here to chase down this gremlin.
The NTFS (a proprietary journaling file system developed by Microsoft) support under linux is limited. These errors appears because the linux not able to fix the errors what can be after "unsafe" remove (or power fail, or else). Try the same with EXT4 or EXFAT formatted drives, and you wont get that errors (another story). Maybe the NTFS support will be improved... but for a linux OS, a linux file system (EXT4) is the best and safe choise.
Looks like the RPi5 is very sensitive to the power source.
Delivering a maximum of 5.1V, 5A, it supports USB PD (Power Delivery), so Raspberry Pi 5
can communicate with it and select the most appropriate power profile. This enables
Raspberry Pi 5 to increase the USB current limit automatically from the default 600mA to
1.6A, in order to provide extra power for devices connected to the four Type A USB ports.
(https://datasheets.raspberrypi.com/power-supply/2…oduct-brief.pdf)
The RPi4 have a maximum USB port output of 1.2A without to request a "genuine" power source.
So... could be a possibility that the RPi5 to don't "recognize" the power source as a "genuine Raspberry 27W" power source (and limit the power delivery on USB)?
