Deployed in the living room and it suffers from the same problem again. Same key invalid error in the GUI set up for Wifi. SSH connmanctl says my Wifi is connected though. But it fails to connect to anything Internet. Library scans and Addons.

    Okay now it can't find my wifi. Doesn't show up with the services command for some reason.

    I SSH'd into the Pi and used connmanctl.


    Agent On

    scan wifi


    connect [my wifi name]

    "You are already connected"

    disconnect [my wifi name]

    connect [my wifi name]

    I was able to disconnect from my Wifi and reconnect. Eventually. It didn't work the second time even though I verified I was on Ethernet. The command worked this time for whatever reason. It never prompted for the wifi password though.

    I restarted it and tested it without Ethernet. It seems to work for now! At least on this boot cycle...

    Got my RPi400 set up with LibreELEC. It works fine but it won't connect to wifi. Says "Key Invalid." I know the wifi password is correct. I checked it. It works on ethernet of course, but when I try to connect to my wifi it just asks for the password and then says key invalid. Also it tends to crash when I try to Connect to a wireless network.

    Log file

    Good news! It was least likely thing that ever happens. It was the cable! I tried a regular HDMI cable and a mini adapter and it works. Rebooted, everything still functional. Also got it connected to wifi which did not work in a previous version.

    Now on to the new problem...where are all the skins? In the official repository under Look and Feel, there is only one Skin listed, Estouchy. Did every skin get removed from LibreELEC for some reason?

    On the RPi 400 you have to use the HDMI connector next to the SD card slot.

    so long,


    I must have been mistaken. That's the output with the weak signal. The TV receives an unstable signal. The inputs keep changing rapidly as though some HDMI source is trying to connect over and over.

    I tried that. No change at all. HDMI output is still bad.

    I can SSH into it. I wonder if there are commands I can use so I can figure out where it is erroring.

    I got a Raspberry Pi400 Keyboard. Installed a fresh 10.0.2 with the SD card it came with. There is no stable video "connection". I see the rainbow test, then it loses signal. I see the LibreELEC logo, then it loses signal again. The HDMI cable is connected to the port nearest the USB-C power SD card slot. It boots fine since I can connect to over SSH. It seems like it is not getting the right HDMI parameters? Is there a command I can type in to config or cmdline.txt to force an HDMI mode or something? Thank you!

    Got everything working. Only issue is I get an error about client ID when I try to sign in to Youtube. But that's a problem for another thread. I think I may leave LibreELEC on the 400 and give it to my roommate who runs LibreELEC all day. She could definitely use a hardware upgrade.

    Now if that works out for her, then I can take my seldom used HTPC from the living room and install RetroELEC on that! Hmmm.

    Got the LibreSpot addon setup. Turns out it's no good for my use. Needed a spotify client, not a uhh, streaming endpoint. Anyway, I'm gonna focus on making the YouTube addon work. Looks like a 73 step process. Lol. Anybody know of a typed guide, not a video? I much prefer non-video tutorials. Last one I used for it was already out of date. I dislike how many video guides there are over typed/blog entries.

    Thanks for the reply @heitbaum

    I didn't replace anything myself. I just downloaded the RetroELEC version I mentioned and burned it to the SD card. I can use LE 10, but then I lose out on on plugins for spotify and youtube, for now. Those are kind of crucial right now for my build. Really I need to know if I can just use an older version of Kodi with LE 10. Okay, nevermind. Youtube appears to have support for Matrix. But the spotify plugin is needed. That's why I was hoping to use RetroELEC, since it comes with a desktop, mentions Spotify, and seems to be optimized enough. The "default" raspberry pi os, Buster, was too slow to be usable for anything.

    RemotePi board reroutes power to it. You wouldn't use Argon's normal power connector. For that reason, and others, the RemotePi board is not appropriate, I agree.

    You can solder IR receivers directly and use LIRC. Or you can get a USB MCE remote dongle. Not sure if they are still around. Either way, the functionality is the same. Control without being able to power on over IR. It's a great feature to have, but don't force yourself around it. I only have one IR raspberry pi because I have only have one space to use it in, a living room. Anywhere else it is kind of a waste.

    That article has the right idea with the GPIO wiring. You would still need a case for an IR board to go into, and attach to the wire. Just doing it with jumper connectors to the boards wouldn't be stable.

    That article with LIRC involves soldering the IR receivers directly. That is a more manual set up. If you go with something like the RemotePi board you will just use the scripts the maker provides. It's easy. The only challenge really is having a stable enough connection from the Argon's GPIO to the IR receiver, whatever you choose.

    I have the RemotePi Board on my RPi3 with my own homemade case. In order for it to work with IR, it needs something like the RemotePi board. It can not power on via a USB IR receiver, like an MCE dongle. This is because USB has no control over powering on the Pi, the RemotePi Board does because it is attached to the GPIO. You'll need a component like the RemotePi to make powering on/off your Argon One possible.

    Unfortunately, it may not fit on the Argon One case correctly, and look awkward. You may have to get the RemotePi Board with a separate connector for the IR and LEDs. That way you can reroute those parts to where you need them.