Posts by Jogee

Quote from michael123

Thanks, I'll grab it from softpedia, it's weird but Intel have pulled all hdmi firmwares other than for the nuc6 (maybe migrated them to windows update, I'm not sure.

Actually, NUC 7-13 technical and warranty support has moved to ASUS now (they bought it). There is a link as I recall when searching the NUC section on Intel's download center.

To find my Intel NUC in Asus support site I had to search on my model number.

It doesn't look like everything is over as yet (I didn't see my HDMI firmware listed but know Intel had it earlier in January). But for example I found the HDMI firmware for a NUCI7DNH.

Offered in case it helps.

I had difficulty with getting ActivateWindowAndFocus to work and with deciphering the ids when I was trying to simplify a few steps. I cheated instead by binding a python script to a key that basically brought up the window dialog I needed and manually moved the selection down.

I described and documented it over here. Not elegant, but maybe you can use ActivateWindow(ShutdownMenu) plus an Action(Down) or two?

If you don't need the option to select alternate options from the ShutdownMenu maybe you could directly map the button to the Suspend System built-in command.

Good luck.

Thanks for pointing that out. I didn't even know or think to look there.

I did a quick search but I couldn't find anything reporting the same. Hopefully I'm not wasting your time with my poor search skills.

In LibreElec 11.0 (Generic) the Event Log button that appears in the top right corner of Settings (see the Kodi Wiki for a screenshot) has been replaced by the LibreElec settings button. I'm quite certain my memory notes that wasn't the case in 10.x. I've checked with a freshly created USB (11.0 generic) booted in live mode and it is the same.

Kodi 20.1 Windows shows that Event Log button as pictured in the wiki -- in the top right corner.

You can still access the Event Log from the System submenu though, so the functionality is still there. So it's largely cosmetic and a small chance of confusion for those less experienced users that might be confused by the conflict with what is shown in Kodi's wiki

Does anyone running on 11 Legacy or 11 RPi or other platforms note the same?

Was this an intentional design change by the LibreElec development team?

For sure a very small niggle, and it's just me being curious. But I thought I'd ask.

Thanks.

Apparently walking away for a while does work for letting you come back with a fresh view.

I found the problem was with <algorithmdirtyregions> which I was using in my advancedsettings.xml. It doesn't like values 1 or 2, but the default of 3 works just fine. At least for Intel graphics.

So I removed it entirely.

I'll try to mark the thread as resolved. Hopefully this helps someone in the future.

Short story:

LibreELEC 11 Generic upgrade doesn't create the GUI, but a LibreELEC 11 Generic boot usb booted to the LIVE environment works fine.

Hardware:

HP Stream Mini (Model 200-009 - Intel Celecron 2975U, 4GB RAM)

• connected via HDMI through an AVR to a 1080p TV
• PC always booted after TV and AVR powered up fully

Intel NUC NUC8i3BEH (with 8GB RAM)

• connected direct to a 1080p TV via HDMI

Long story:

I upgraded my LibreELEC 10.0.4 install on two PC's using LibreELEC-Generic.x86_64-11.0.0.img.gz and both do not create the GUI. They remain at the LibreELEC post screen and do not get to the Kodi Nexus boot screen graphic nor GUI proper.

I can reach the system via SMB and via SSH. But the debug log shows it cannot create the GUI. My LibreELEC 10 install was from scratch, and the only add-on would have been from the official repo (at most maybe a visualizer for music).

Of course updating to LibreELEC-Generic-legacy.x86_64-11.0.0.img.gz resolves the problem. I kind of half expected a problem with the HP as it was an older Intel chip, but not with the more recent Intel NUC 8th gen i3.

So I got curious and created a LibreELEC 11 Generic usb and booted to the Live environment on both PC's. That worked fine including playing a few videos to test.

I have backups created so I can try a full reinstall from scratch or just blow away the profile and try again, as I understand it still might be something in the profile or some kind of corruption.

However, I thought I'd ask for help first. I saw one mention of something similar in the forum. Plus the fact that booting from the Live usb environment works kinda bothers me. Here are my debug logs:

L11 Generic, loglevel=1 - http://ix.io/4qDD (HP Stream Mini)

L11 Generic, loglevel=2 - http://ix.io/4qDH (HP Stream Mini)

Aside from it repeating the unable to create GUI message there isn't anything obvious to my untrained eyes that I can see as odd.

Any dev or otherwise knowledgeable person have an idea?

Thanks!

If you want to update to 10.0.2 then you can manually update as per the instructions in the wiki for Updating. There are a few methods noted, but the Samba method I feel is the next easiest. I used it on my non-Pi systems.

If they are a bit too intimidating, then I'm afraid you'll have to wait for the auto update channel method to get published by the devs after they are reasonably satisfied it won't break tons of systems.

What are you hoping to achieve by posting you are still waiting for the update channel to populate 10.0.2? If I was a dev, that would be quite insulting to me. It's not like they've forgotten.

The model receiver you quoted does indicate it can handle 4k input/output through the HDMI repeater block, but at max 8bit. At least the manual I found and read. I couldn't find a manual or listing for your TV.

I would say try forcing everything down to 1080p just for testing through the receiver.

I have no experience with raspberry Pi, but I thought I read that audio output might be dependent on which HDMI port you are using (I understand there to be 2x on a Pi 4).

Someone else will have to tag in here. Good luck.

It reads as if you are looping the audio through the TV then to the receiver. Especially with your HDMI arc comment. Connect it as such:

RPi 4 (Kodi) -> HDMI -> Receiver HDMI input -> HDMI -> TV

Use the ARC inputs if you have other things connected direct to the TV that you want audio pushed to the receiver.

Disconnect optical from TV as it won't be needed.

Make sure your receiver is on before you power up the RPi and start Kodi.

Set passthrough to HDMI on RPi Kodi. See the Kodi audio quickstart guide for how to configure the settings.

Don't loop it from the RPi to the Tv then to the receiver. The above will get it direct to the receiver and play it. The limitation is the TV, not the signal.

The output channels for optical will always be 2.0 as that is all it can do. You can only get multichannel from optical if it is encoded (like Dolby Digital), which is when you would need passthrough.

I would suggest connecting the Pi through the receiver via HDMI and then connect the TV to the receiver via HDMI. It's a better setup if you can run it that way.

It is possible to copy over your MyVideos database and Kodi will upgrade it to the newer db version. Don't copy over the addons database (or other such associated folders), as it would kind of defeat the purpose of the clean install recommendation.

I asked a similar question to yours here: Is a clean install required for LibreELEC 10.0.0?

I redid all the settings to be sure everything was clean, and it didn't really take me long. My videos and watched state got cut over fine, and once I set my sources and scrapers back up (be careful not to rescan), I was mostly fine. I scraped my music back in from scratch as there were no ratings or watched nonsense to worry about. I also copied over my smart playlists and playlists from my backup.

It's possible. How harsh you find it really depends on your skill and comfort level.

I have only a few small customizations that I have backed up separately, so my install is pretty much stock. It was way quicker and cleaner for me to blow it all up.

Kodi migrated the MyVideos database over no problem, including watched state. The only dumb-dumb thing I did was stupidly say Yes to allow to refresh the source into the library when I was setting the scraper on the source. It created a bunch of duplicates. Had to delete the newer MyVideos database and start that part again, but this time not refreshing.

A lot of the artwork on many of the videos seems to be missing. But that's not a show stopper and I can fix that as I go. I've seen it before.

It's a shame that profiles isn't working properly. But there are bigger problems to tackle that the devs can make better use of their time on.

I did grok the hints, thank you.

A clean install would seem to be my preferred path. If I'm moving folders out of the way and just copying back video & music databases, it's not different to a clean install and just network transfer the two over. More or less what you said, just different.

After a proper backup of course.

Thanks for the confirmation. I appreciate the reply.

I understood from the LibreELEC 10rc1 blog post that a clean install would be required. But in reading the 10.0.0 release version blog post it only notes a manual update if you are on 9.2 (and previous, presumably).

Is a clean install required if upgrading from 9.2.6 (or previous)? Or will the usual manual update process be sufficient.

I understand why the clean install was recommended/required. I'm just trying to plan for migrating my library, and thus watched status for my content.

Thanks!

Is it possible to use OS level user accounts in LibreELEC (and therefore separate profiles) instead of having the profiles managed within Kodi? That way the OS handles it and keeps all the settings/libraries separate in different HOME directories.

It would remove some of the flexibility in Media Info and Media Sources. Basically forcing a full library/settings per user. But at least the program install would not be duplicated potentially. Not sure how MySQL shared libraries would be affected.

I realize that is a huge undertaking, but I mention it in case it hasn't already been considered as a long term solution. If it is even possible.

My apologies if this has already been considered.

It's only trying to boot to PXE because it didn't find anything else to boot from. Network boot (PXE) is generally the last thing it tries.

So either you didn't create the bootable USB correctly, the laptop didn't detect the USB, or the BIOS boot sequence is not set correctly.

Have you checked to see if the USB is bootable in another computer?

Is the laptop still connected to the TV when you try to boot from the USB? If so, there is usually a key combination on the laptop to switch from laptop screen to external display.

Good luck.

Hard drives are slower at writing than reading, in general. But I've not personally noticed such a big offset. It could be a drive or enclosure limitation, but you've not specified any make/model info. 280 Mbps is a good USB2 read speed, especially when pulled over a wifi connection.

It may not be the fault of the wifi. Have you considered it could be the USB interface (the drive enclosure) or the Odroid itself? Have you done any testing on that side?

How is the USB HDD being powered, from the Odroid usb ports or external AC adapter. If not external AC, maybe the Odroid can't keep up the power.

Consider testing:

• with your laptop connected via ethernet to your home router (hopefully it has an ethernet connection) to eliminate typical wireless issues.
• read/write speeds of your USB HDD on your laptop, as a means to compare relative speeds and eliminate possibilities.
• uploading from your laptop to some other network device's internal storage (not usb attached) if possible to see if the speed discrepancy follows (would help to eliminate the Odroid itself).
• with a USB thumb drive instead of the USB HDD.

Good luck.

Audio delay between a HDMI and analog connection is not uncommon. Plenty of posts about HDMI audio delay on other forums. I found this one for eg (I make no claim how accurate it is) -- Audio over HDMI vs analog connections. | AVForums

Most recent TV's have some kind of audio output, very often optical audio output. If you have the option on your audio receiver (external hifi), consider connecting it that way instead of through the analog out on the Pi, as it will likely help with the syncronization. The optical is the better connection if you have that option.

Or mute the TV, or turn off the TV speakers, when you are pumping the audio through your hifi.

Adding an audio offset is not possible (??) for just music files. That's more related to when audio on a video file is out (also common, but more reasons why that happens).