Posts by PANiCnz

Quote from HarryH

Before I look deeper into the code, does this "touch /storage/.config/argon40_rc.lock" don't work for you?

Regarding the range. I have seen your post in Argon40 forum. I can only report from a buddy of me, who is owner of a Argon One V1 and has added the IR Receiver manually. He reported a bad response to the IR signal until he has made a slot/hole in the transluent red plastic cover. Before made such irreversible changes you should check without the bottom assembled.

Edit:
In a short test with my universal remote control, I got a distance of about 4m/13 feet when I pointed the remote control frontal to the argon case. The further you go away, it seems more important to keep the remote control at the same heights as the case/IR sensor.

Thanks "touch /storage/.config/argon40_rc.lock" sorted it.

Found my range issues are likely being caused by the remote rather than the sensor. Range on my SofaBaton U1 is terrible compared to my Flirc Skip 1s. Unfortunately, the range of devices supported by the Skip 1s is a big lack luster.

The reason Confluence doesnt work with Omega is there have been changes to the skinning API. Change the version number in the XML file bypasses the version check so Confluence will run. But given you haven't fixed the underlying incompatibility you shouldn't expect it to run perfectly.

I've installed version 0.0.10, and it looks to be performing as expected.

My remote is no longer working. Am using a SofaBaton, with the onboard IR receiver and a mecool_kii_pro keymap.

Edit: ignore that all sorted. Has anyone else found the range on the v3 IR receiver to be crap? I'm barely getting 6ft. Using a FLIRC as a temporary solution but would rather use the builtin receiver.

Can the addon be configured so it doesn't override /storage/.config/rc_maps.cfg on boot? I've changed it to support the remote I'm using but after a reboot its back to the argon40 remote.

Fan pulses seem to have stopped with 0.0.8, but i don't think the double press works. Will try the alternative settings in the config file shortly.

Quote from Da Flex

If the on/off frequency of the fan is pretty constant, then I would say it's expected behavior. My power LED (always-on expected) had random on/off cycles without that fix.

Yeah its constant. Kinda annoying but not too bad.

Quote from HarryH

PANiCnz ,

your are the second which reports this behavior with Argon One V3 in combination with 0.0.7. So there seems really to be an issue within the current code.
Currently I can't reproduce with my V2 case... it could takes longer to find the root cause.

As long the CPU temperatur is below the first threshold, the fan should be off. Pulsing is possible if the current temperature is around the threshold. 42c is far away from the 55c default value. I fear I have possibly insert this bug as I switched over to the Argon Register Helper methods, which has a mechanism included to differentiate the firmware versions.

From the testing with Argon V3 case exists a version 0.0.6d, but this version should only be used with Argon One V3 cases, because the commands were changed for the new firmware. I don't know if there are also V2 cases with this type of firmware in the wild.

You can give this a try, until I have isolate the bug. Please don't forget to reboot after you have uninstalled the current plugin version.

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After about 30 seconds of testing this seems to solve the problem. Haven't tested any of the other features but the fan isnt pulsing at this stage.

Quote from HarryH

Add-On was update to version 0.0.7.

• make it work with LE12 nightly builds after 2023/11/16.
  Raspberry Pi Tools - GPIOZERO - LE12 Issues
• supports the new firmware version of the Argon One V3 (RPi5) case

Thanks for maintaining this addon its great.

Using a V3 case with an LE12 nightly and addon v0.0.7, the fan pulses every 20-30 seconds. Is this expected behavior? LE is reporting temps of about 42c and fan thresholds are the default.

From memory LE should run well with a discrete Intel card like Arc A380 if you want to retain your existing hardware. But I suspect a RPi5 would provide a comparable experience for far less power consumption.

I've got a RPi5 as a secondary setup and I can't notice any difference with my J4105 based HTPC in the lounge. I've got the RPi5 booting off a NVMe drive and it's a slick experience.

Should I expect deinterlacing to be working with a RPi5 with DRM Prime? Working as expected on a 12 nightly but not with 11.0.6.

Have gone back to 12 but can go back to 11 and dump the logs if it's expected to be working.

No DV with LE. Might be possible using Android or CE depending on hardware.

Quote from Mario77

Can something like this run LE smoothly or it will have driver issues?

Thinking it's time to update my RPi2 and looking for alternatives as RPi4 is bit scarce at the moment..

It'll run smooth but there are some limitations. It's only a HDMI 1.4 port so no 4k60 or HDR. It's also a Coffee Lake CPU so won't have hardware decode for the lastest video codecs.

Quote from Noumenon

well, sounds like I need to get 24hz, or rather 23.98hz working. anyone have any ideas on that? I’m not sure what is going on with my video pipeline. I tried copying the edid, but that didn’t help. I’m not totally sure what the Prime DRM decoding does, but it doesn’t seem to affect my problem on or off.

I did manage to get HD audio working (with playback at 60hz).

Have you read this article and following the recommendations? This forum post over at OSMC is also worth a read.

If you're having issues with 24hz/23.98hz you might need to investigate the "Allow 3:2 pulldown refresh rates" setting.

Quote from heitbaum

Workaround available at - https://github.com/LibreELEC/Libr…ment-1368202015

Thanks, working like a charm. LE11 with the 2200G is looking good!

I'm noticing the same issue with a 2200G, is there a known fix? Using LibreELEC-Generic.x86_64-11.0-nightly-20230119-f21f7f1.img.

Logs -> http://ix.io/4lNK

Have you tried the official Pi TV Hat? I suspect that's about as good as it gets.

I had a couple of these and gave up on them, it's probably possible to get them working but it's a PITA. Do yourself a favour and get a Telestar DIGIBIT R1.

If you need/want HDR support then the RPi4 is probably the best option.

I'm a Gemini Lake user with a ASRock J4105-ITX, and its great with the exception of HDR. Supposedly its capable of HDR but the drivers are lacking, there are beta builds floating around on the forums for HDR, but at this stage no idea when it'll make it into a stable release.

I've generally found the UI performance to be the most dependent on storage performance. Are you booting from SD card or USB? If its SD card it might be worth trying some fast USB storage and see if that makes a difference.

Quote from JLADK

Might be only solution.

But can you output 4K signal on one HDMI output and only the Audio on the other HDMI on the splitter?

The EZCOO splitter I linked to works fine. I've got 4k60 HDR out to my TV, and am bit streaming DTS HD-MA and Dolby TrueHD to my soundbar. You lose ARC is the only downside.