Posts by chewitt

1. Known .. the HEVC decoder isn't in as good shape as H264/VP9 ones (no VP9 on S905 tho). It's not likely to change anytime soon due to the lack of developers interested in working on the Amlogic VDEC. All historic work has been done by commercial developers who'd be happy to continue working on it - if someone pays them to do it. There might be some changes to that, but early days.

2. I've not seen random reboots with a WP2 (which should behave the same) .. hard to comment without more specific info.

3. No, we are using extline and mainline u-boot not the prehistoric vendor u-boot, so no boot.ini.

4. OS contains "ledfix.service" which deliberately sets all LEDs with a heartbeat config to 'none' as flashing LEDs are annoying on an HTPC device. You can disable/mask the service to stop that and see the system heartbeat again. To change from a system heartbeat you need to change the device-tree to use a different trigger.

Kodi always outputs progressive, so if you have PAL 576i@25Hz media it will be converted to 576p@50Hz by rendering each interlaced half-frame to one progressive frame and your output device should support 50Hz modes. I'm not entirely sure what then happens in the kernel DRM layer if you force the output to an interlaced device, but I'd assume it must be converted and I'd expect 576i@50Hz to be the result not 25Hz as I doubt the DRM layer is configurable or smart enough to detect the progressive output could be (re)packed into 25Hz.

NB: These days Kodi is written around the assumption the GUI is always 720p or greater, so while you can get output on a lower resolution display, the GUI layout and will not be optimal.

If the original install was done some time ago, delete IPTV simple files from /storage/.kodi/addons and /storage/.kodi/addons/packages then reinstall them. Some compile changes mean old(er) compiled add-ons don't like current nightlies; newer versions of the add-on are built with options that work/avoid crashes (assuming I guessed the issue correctly).

Amazon searching "wireless headphones for tv watching" threw up some options for me. These were the simplest/cheapest ones (no idea what they are like, but you can see they have lots of connectivity options). If the TV itself supports multi-audio out you can connect them direct. If not you might need some kind of HDMI splitter to get an RCA output or similar.

Zanchie Wireless Headphones for TV Watching with RF Transmitter & Charging Dock (Digital Optical RCA AUX), On-Ear Digital TV Headsets for Seniors, Plug n Play, up to 330ft, No Audio Delay

Zanchie Wireless Headphones for TV Watching with RF Transmitter & Charging Dock (Digital Optical RCA AUX), On-Ear Digital TV Headsets for Seniors, Plug n Play,…

www.amazon.ae

^ not a recommendation

NB: Pulse audio almost certainly can output to multiple devices at the same time with the right config (which you'd have to Google). The tertiary challenge with multiple outputs is often "audio sync" as processing times for the BT audio path vs. the HDMI path may end up being a little different.

If you map the container port 5000 to the host port 5000 you can access the container GUI on port 5000 using a computer browser. There is no browser inside Kodi, so you must use an external browser.

NTFS read has existed in the kernel for aeons, but write capabilities came from Paragon recently as part of a major update. It's a mature driver in the sense that Paragon have been using (and selling) a version of the driver for a long time; but equally it's rather new as their code was thoroughly bike-shedded during the submission process and what was finally merged is somewhat different from the original submission.

IMHO.. always put big storage drives in a NAS box in the network and use Ethernet not Sneakernet to move files around between devices. The expense is worth it if you value reliability of data in use (good filesystems, no USB anywhere) and survivability of your data (put the drives in an appropriate redundant disk format).

If it works for you, do it. If it doesn't work, keep reading (and experimenting). If you give up - that's why online scrapers exist

"Handicap" not "Handycap" .. right word, wrong spelling

I've found that "wireless" headphones tend to have base units with different audio-input connectors while BT headphones only support a BT connection to the audio source. So with wireless units you can use a cheap HDMI audio splitter for RCA/Phono or 3.5mm Jack input to the headphones, and there's no dependency on having multi-audio output on the source, which is rarely supported. In LE you might be able to make multiple audio outputts work via Pulse audio (not the default alsa arrangement) but it's not a standard configuration so there's no HOWTO guide we can point you to.

If there is no WiFi network you can run an Ethernet cable between the two devices and assign them different static IPs in the same subnet, then configure two sources on each device; one for the local USB drive and one for the remote (SMB) share on the other device. If there's an objection to using cables due to different rooms etc. you really need to add a WiFi router (no need for internet, but you need a networking method to connect the devices).

Then read https://kodi.wiki/view/NFO_files .. which ties in with the article on scrapers (scraping .nfo files).

Quote from LybsterKodi

I'll also have a go at switching the powerline adapter to a different socket.

^ so the RPi4 is connected to a powerline adapter? .. If so the interface/port speed might be Gigabit but I guarantee actual throughput on the link is nowhere near Gigabit. All you've done is prove that your powerline connection is slow. Connect the RPi4 and PC directly to a proper Gigabit switch and measure again.

Their emby add-on is the same as ours, because it is ours. CE is basically a fork of our codebase (including add-ons) with a few Amlogic specific extras included.

Apart from the lack of tuners and 1GB it's much the same as WP2 (another p200 clone). I'll share some docs with you.

The only real way to know is making a test install on a spare USB key and then (if there's an issue) share the boot log and "lsusb" output so we can check the PCI card IDs against upstream kernel drivers. Most PCI audio cards use generic drivers and should just work. Occasionally we need to enable the driver in kernel config. Occasionally we need to patch a new card ID.

There's a manual workaround to update the certificates that are used (some of the embedded ones have expired) but I'd suggest you look at dtech LE 9.2.8 images which should avoid the need for that (and are newer).

wedok I think the thread you started was deleted (as requested). I haven't had much feedback on the Minix U1 device-tree (why it's not been sent upstream yet) so I'd be interested in seeing some current logs. I've also added some experimental support for the headphone output on the box which I need to get tested.

Please put this on the box: https://chewitt.libreelec.tv/testing/LibreE…arm-10.85.0.tar

Run "dmesg | paste" and share the URL so I can see the boot log. The headphone output should just work if you connect something?

Quote from crazyturk

Beelink King Pro does not open. The screen remains in the libreelec logo. He was working in July versions.

Fixed with https://github.com/LibreELEC/LibreELEC.tv/pull/6790 two days ago

"dmesg | paste" and share the URL .. if there is no hardware found, the issue is with probably with kernel/drivers not userspace apps.