Settting "meson-gxl-s905x-p212.dtb" in uEnv.ini should work with the box (except for WiFi/BT perhaps) although the ability to boot does still require the vendor bootloader to support looking for boot.scr or s905_autoscript on startup. Most do, but not unless you invoke the recovery boot process (holding the reset button during power-on and releasing at the right time, which might take some attempts to get right). If the recovery boot flow is not triggered the box will continue booting into Android or existing Linux OS. Sadly a) it's not as simple as just inserting the SD card, and b) the only real way to understand what is/isn't happening if it's not working is to attach a serial console. That generally needs the user to open the box and solder header pins to the board (as box manufacturers omit them to save pennies) before connecting the USB->UART device (which 99/100 users don't have). When it works it's great. When it doesn't it can be a hoop-jumping exercise
Posts by chewitt
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From a quick read it's the DLNA photo sharing features on the QNAP that creates them, so this needs to be disabled for the content/media folders you share to Kodi. Then you can run ^ that (on the QNAP) to exorcise the existing thumbs. Then you can either clean the current Kodi DB or start over and scrape again.
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That's not an RTL chip number though. Try Googling..
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QNAP NAS? .. Google throws up lots of QNAP related hits for these filenames and several solutions for how to disable them (on the NAS) and then do some cleanup (on the NAS). ISTR there's something similar that happens on Synology too when the Photostation app is installed (now banished from mine).
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It's still hard to make out, but I think RTL8189ETV is an educated guess on the WiFi chip. This is a basic b/g/n WiFi only module (no BT). The RLT vendor driver can be found here: https://github.com/jwrdegoede/rtl8189ES_linux and while it's relatively simple to package it's not a driver that LE will package due to the long-standing policy of not adding more damn RTL vendor drivers. Unfortunately this is an old and cheap chip and I'm not aware of anyone making the effort to port the (equally old and cheap) vendor drivers to the upstream kernel. WiFi sucks for streaming most media anway, so stick to Ethernet.
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PCB's can be fun to get without reflections and such obscuring the info. However, that's a nice clear pic and there are definitely no buttons on that side of the PCB. Have you tried creating a new install SD from dtech'd image? .. not booting?
At the end of the day it's probably just an unsupported Realtek chip, so unless you really really need BT, maybe just quit while we're ahead?
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Run "pastekodi" over SSH and share the URL so we can see what the boot log says.
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It would be highly unusual for a board to omit support for user-initiated recovery. It would be nice to see the underside of the board.
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I got bored in my lunch hour so this image has a device-tree for tx9-pro which uses the IR remote from tx3-mini .. if you have the larger Tanix remote with numbers on it those won't work and you'll need to capture the key codes for me. I've also added something for the clock on the front, which might work if it's the same type as the TX3-mini box. If not the same, it might show nothing or garbage.
https://chewitt.libreelec.tv/testing/LibreELEC-AMLGX.arm-10.95.1-box.img.gz
Again, run "pastekodi" and share the URL so I can see the boot log.
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Start with an update to 10.95.1 and check again.
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The remote will not work unless:
a) the remote keymap is added to the kernel and a custom device tree created to reference that IR keymap
b) you manually add the keymap, see: https://wiki.libreelec.tv/configuration/…ration-advanced
Normally users need to figure out the keymap first (B), then share it, then I can think about creating a custom device-tree file (A).
It sounds like Kodi is otherwise running .. which means the box is working. Please SSH to the box, run "pastekodi" and share the URL.
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The row of four pins next to the socket are for the serial UART .. easy to spot as one has a square marking. It's quite normal for the pin header to be omitted from the board (saves a few pennies).
If not in the audio jack I'd expect the reset to be on the underside of the board, which we don't have a photo for.
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Yes, the AV port. This often has a small button at the end of the socket, i.e. unfold a paperclip and poke it right down the hole to press it.
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Run "pastekodi" after a clean boot and share the URL
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There is no reset button in it, so the toothpick method does not apply to it.
Have a look down the audio/cvbs 3.5mm socket. If there's no obvious button on the underside it's often hidden there.