Posts by VLouis

    I do not use it in the same room. I mostly use my Kodi as radio. Therefor I use a Bluetooth speaker in the kitchen and in the garden. In such a case an Echo is not important. TV is only a third prioirity. (second is the tv as Diashow)

    Is possible to use two bluetooth speakers at the same time? Don't know if the bluetooth is capable for such a thing.

    I'm using internet radio in the garden too, for this I have a simple solution, an old smart-phone without sim, without account, only wifi and an app for music (with ability to play net stream - ex. AIMP - android). I like to find new purpose for old smart-phones, another one is used as a perfect desk clock... :)

    I'm just wondering... in the case of this "simultanous audio output", exist users who really using the audio output in that way? To hear the sound from TV (HDMI) and amplifier or bluetooth spekers in the same time? I tried that and because of the delay differences, the result was a "strange" sound with some kind of "echo".

    Don't mean me wrong, if somebody really want it, search for possible solution, experiment, learn meantime... but I think exist a reason why "Kodi don't do and don't offer in the settings" such option.

    A strange Problem. On HDMi I have crackls in the output. Bluetooth is without any problems. At first I assumed, that it works better even if I disconnect the bluetooth device.

    I lost a lot of time in the past for that "simultanous audio output", without to find a stable solution without issues. Till I discovered, I didn't want a real simoultaous audio (never used two outputs simultanous). Basically I wanted sound though HDMI for video files and I2S (hifiberry) for music (mostly internet radio). And for this the "Audio Profiles" addon is perfect for me. With a bit of work in the addon settings, it's able to change automatically the audio output based on media type.

    I'm using an RPi3B as an always-on NAS (only Ethernet, Raspberry Pi OS). No periodical reboot needed. It just works. I suggest to figure out, which add-on breaks stable usage.

    I'm using only one RPi3B with wifi connection (modded for external antenna) and for a time I struggled with the "invalid wifi key" issue. I find in the log (python script to save log - loaded through favourites menu) some avahi-daemon "lines" when the iwd tried to reconnect... so I disabled the "zeroconf" and added that daily reboot cron job. I know, isn't the professional solution, but looks like it's working for me.

    Sorry for offtopic...

    But in anticipation of it still failing I've got the cron reboot waiting in the wings :) , about 3-4am should be about right for me on this I think

    I'm using same timeframe, but I have a "reboot sequence", firts reboots the router, then the RPi with the TV server (TVheadend), then the other RPi's, with 10 minutes delay between those. And I think any OS (including the linux too) is good to be rebooted periodically, so then why not every night... Less issues... Less headache.

    That way, I won't have to power down the RPi and risk a recurrence of "No Signal" when I power it back up.

    When I had the same issue the solution was to save the display data using the command "getedid create" (SSH).

    1. For the "No Signal":

    Do you have any reason to don't try to save the EDID (display) data from TV? Did you tried to search some info about that command? Maybe to learn something?

    When it's working (on the TV you see what should to be see), go to SSH and run that command...

    Or don't try it... and wait for... something...

    for now I think I'm going to try to track down what is tweaking CEC periodically, which has the effect of turning my tv back on

    2. Turning the TV back on:

    You could have some "unwanted" reboots (RPi power issue?) and it's activated in the CEC settings to wake up the display at the LE boot. (Settitings - System - Input - Peripherals - CEC - "Devices to power on during startup")

    I think Sony did way more with their hdmi control system than they needed to.

    It's a standard communication between the video source (RPI) and display (TV) using dedicated wires in the cable (HDMI). Till now I seen two issues, the cable - defective, wrong contact, poor quality, or the display in stand-by don't offer the display data (EDID info) - like my LG TV. You can try 2 simple things, try with another cable, and try to switch on the TV first then the RPi, to be sure the display data it's available.

    Hi, usually the HDMI is "turned on" only if at the boot is detected a compatibile display (HDMI cable issue, display in stand-by when the LE booting...). Between LE v9 and v11 was major changes, probably the newer version is more "stricter" to get the display information (EDID data). When I had the same issue the solution was to save the display data using the command "getedid create" (SSH).

    I've done this three times with same results. Maybe there is enough info here to chase down this gremlin.

    The NTFS (a proprietary journaling file system developed by Microsoft) support under linux is limited. These errors appears because the linux not able to fix the errors what can be after "unsafe" remove (or power fail, or else). Try the same with EXT4 or EXFAT formatted drives, and you wont get that errors (another story). Maybe the NTFS support will be improved... but for a linux OS, a linux file system (EXT4) is the best and safe choise.

    Looks like the RPi5 is very sensitive to the power source.

    Delivering a maximum of 5.1V, 5A, it supports USB PD (Power Delivery), so Raspberry Pi 5
    can communicate with it and select the most appropriate power profile. This enables
    Raspberry Pi 5 to increase the USB current limit automatically from the default 600mA to
    1.6A, in order to provide extra power for devices connected to the four Type A USB ports.

    (https://datasheets.raspberrypi.com/power-supply/2…oduct-brief.pdf)

    The RPi4 have a maximum USB port output of 1.2A without to request a "genuine" power source.

    So... could be a possibility that the RPi5 to don't "recognize" the power source as a "genuine Raspberry 27W" power source (and limit the power delivery on USB)?

    I did try connecting the tuners to a hub, but not a powered one. I'm reluctant to spend more money on one in order to test this, although I may be able to put my hands on one.

    Try to get one powered hub at least for testing, no need to be USB3, one old could be good too. Just to check it what's happen if the tuners doesn't draw the power from RPi. I'm not saying that the problem can't be something else, but if with one or two (exactly the same) tuner it's working well, should be useful to exclude the power issue.