Posts by VLouis

Quote from tunay

It sounds so complicated. You guys need to be honest when releasing Generic stable versions. No Nuc , No intel...

It sounds so complicated.

It's not complicated, just try to understand how it works...

The remote commands are received by the hardware (in your case beelink ap34) and processed by the software (LibreElec - Linux).

The shutdown works, because all is on, the hardware with loaded software... when you want to power up... no software loaded to process that command... And that it's not only for this hardware, it's same for Raspberry and others.

Even if i send a wake on Lan , this means more skills to do that. And Yatse is no option for me.

I just want to get working my remote. For sure i can press the power button manually but it is annoying.

If for you is too hard to learn a bit about your device (wake on lan options), and this is so "annoying", please think about the houndreds and thousands of hours what developers spent to made this Libeelec, free...

Quote from LybsterKodi

I did a clean install from the nightly and things seem to be working. I haven't yet reinstalled TVHeadend since I only have the one tuner device and its on the RPi3 and I haven't seen the "remote communications server failed to start" message again so I'm suspecting its TVHeadend that's causing it.

What versions of LE did you tried? Did you tried to change the "Wait for network before starting Kodi" in LibreELEC settings?

I don't know if what I experienced is the same.... Where I live probably because of old electrical grid, sometime we have 1 second power down. Sometimes 1-2 per day, sometimes without a single power down in a month. So, I had some kind of network issues after the short power down. Mostly with TVheadend, but in that case the weather app was not functional too. After a reboot always was functional again. That was when I used the LE 10.0.2 (3x RPi3). Tried to switch to Le11 nightly, increased the "wait-for-network" time (from 10 sec. to 120) in LibreElec settings. I think was something when the router wasn't back yet and the LE don't wait enough for network (?). Now I'm using the LE 10.0.3 stable with increased "wait-for-network" and looks like without network issue...

Just in the case if any of these information useful for you...

Quote from b22222222222

Hi,

Actually my case is same as yours HDMI and DAC (Hifiberry) RPi3..

The addon is interesting, I will check it out.

Nevertheless Did I undersand right that you did not solved the pulseaudio issue at all? Or you at least found what causes the "echo"?

Anybody else had /resolved the same issue?

First of all, to be clear, the "Audio Profiles" addon don't have option for simultaneous audio. And if no simultaneous audio... no echo.

I'm using without pulse-audio, only with the default alsa sound and enabled in the config.txt the hifiberry module. I set the addon to change the sound output to DAC for audio type media (listening music) and to HDMI for video. Also the addon can be set to toggle the sound outputswith a remote button (ex for youtube, never tried...).

Basically I wanted to be able to listen my favorite internet radio channel using the better quality DAC output, without to be necessary to start the TV, so I reprogrammed a remote button (remote.xml) to start the music, and the addon automatically switch the sound output to DAC.

Quote from b22222222222

Not sure if this is pulseaudio problem or HW is just too weak to send audio to 2 sinks.. (RPi3)

anyone knows?

I had almost same "result" when tried to get working the HDMI and DAC sound on my RPi3.

The "echo" problem you have probably because the hdmi and the bluetooth have different delay in sound processing, I had too when tried to use same setup. Because I didn't need simultaneous audio (HDMI for video, DAC for music/net-radio), I dropped the pulse-audio and using the "Audio profiles" addon. That able to auto switch the audio output for different types of media.

Quote from pagi

hello, I have a Rock pi4C+, I want to connect a HiFIi Berry to it. Is it possible to run it?

Maybe... Looks like two type of Hifi-Berry modules are supported. Don't know if the Rock-Pi version of LE contains all necessary software (dtbo). Try to get more info here: https://wiki.radxa.com/HiFiBerry and https://forum.radxa.com/t/hifiberry-on-rock-pi-4/1369/4

Quote from Mayoru

Currently it's the case, that if I connect a bluetooth speaker. HDMI disappear and only work again if I reset the audiosettings and restart reboot libreelec.

Because the bluetooth connection starts the pulseaudio?

I you have patience (a lot!), first read here: https://wiki.libreelec.tv/configuration/pulseaudio

If you will be lucky and find a working config (simultaneous audio), put it in the "autostart.sh", to be loaded at every startup.

Probably will be an "echo" between HDMI and Bluetooth sound (different delay). Another challenge to synchronize them...

Quote from Mayoru

I have the same requirement.

Not only for tv. My libreelec not only output TV but also Music. I have some bluetooth speaker. I wish to have Music-output on TV and the Bluetooth speaker.

Post

RE: LE10, RPi3B+: how to, audio over HDMI and bluetooth simultaneously?

I spent some time to get working the dual audio output (DAC & HDMI) with PulseAudio on my RPi3, was unstable and the quality wasn't the best. Because I don't need really simultaneous audio (DAC for net radio & hdmi for TV and movies), I'm using now the "Audio Profiles" add-on and is the perfect solution for me.

If you need real simultaneous audio, use the solution proposed by chewitt, if your TV have any usable audio output, use it as audio source for headphone, if not use hdmi-audio splitter.…

VLouis

August 24, 2022 at 1:22 PM

Never tried with Bluetooth speaker. Once had a working config with simultaneous sound on TV and Speakers (from audio jack), was a delay between outputs and created a strange (annoying) echo... maybe can be resolved that too, but I never had a stable and good sound quality config for simultaneous audio.

Hi,

I don't know if my case was same as your... RPi3B, LE 10 or 11, LG TV, and sometimes when I started the TV... no signal...

In my case, if the RPi restarted when the TV was in stand-by, wasn't detect the TV at HDMI cable.

The solution was using the "getedid create" command in the SSH terminal when the TV is on (and working with LE ). This is save the TV display parameters and on the startup the RPi will use it, and does not try to read it thru HMDI cable.

And looks like working with RPi4B too:

Post

RE: LE10 fixed EDID on RPi4 - Scripts

The "getedid" script works exactly like the one on x86, which is documented on the wiki https://wiki.libreelec.tv/configuration/edid

"getedid create" makes current EDIDs permanent (this also honors a receiver on HDMI-2) and "getedid delete" deletes those.

It would be great to get some more feedback if it all works (so far I think I'm the only one who tested this) or if there are issues I might have missed.

so long,

Hias

HiassofT

April 25, 2021 at 5:32 PM

Hi,

I'm using another, "hifiberry-dac" compatible module (Adafruit I2S Stereo Decoder UDA1334A - with RPi3B) without any issue.

In the config.txt I added only the "dtoverlay=hifiberry-dac"n nothing else. Now I'm using the LE 11.0 nightly, but before works with LE 10.0.2 too.

If you have problems with yours, check the config.txt (if you have any other I2S/DAC settings - "dtparam=audio=on" or anything with "i2s"), try another LE version (LE 11 nightly).

Quote from atoulmin

I disagree, the best device is the Intel NUC. much faster than a RPI4. Just as capable and well supported

I think that is depend on the user too. The RPI4 is recommended because have well enough power to be used for LibreElec-Kodi. And is a good balance between CPU, power consumption and price. An Intel NUC is good too, and exist other devices that can be used too.

I'm an RPi user, and for me (and probably for other people too) is important the GPIO-header of the RPi (I2S DAC, IR receiver, IR transmitter in my case). About the power consumption, don't know in case of RPi4, but once I measured when played FHD stream on RPi3B, was only 2W (0.4A - 5V).

Quote from StoneWall

What I really want to preserve are the list of watched and in-progress shows. What is the best way to do that?

Hi,

Different Kodi versions use different media database, even if you will restore the video database created with LE 9.2 (Kodi v18 - Leia: MyVideos.116), will be ignored and the LE 10 will create a new DB (Kodi v19 - Matrix: MyVideos.119). Don't know if exist any tool to migrate-convert the database. More info you can find here: https://kodi.wiki/view/Databases

Don't know if in case of upgrade, from LE 9.2 to LE 10, the databases will be converted... Because in the LE 10 is with major changes, the upgrade not recommended. If you have time... maybe can try after LE-9.2 backup, to upgrade to LE10, find the database folder, save it, make a fresh LE10 install, restore the database folder...

Hi,

Another ways to check the stream coming from TVH server:

1. Install the Kodi to another device (PC, Android), install the TVHeadend client addon and try if the same issue appear.

2. Download the channel list as m3u playlist (browser: http://ip:9981/playlist - "TVH-IP" = IP of device where the Tvheadend server installed).

Try to open the channel with another video player (ex: VLC).

In the both case if the playback not perfect (interrupted sound or video), means the stream from TVHeadend server have errors (antenna signal quality?).

Quote from ghtester

I don't plan to try testing with Tvheadend 4.2 as with this random issue it would be just time wasting.

I don't think the issue ever happened with stream recording so the stream itself should be OK (need to say I use recording in rare cases).

Why the hell the player can't sometimes detect the live audio stream properly?

About trying the TVH 4.2... as you wish...

The AAC stream not so exotic in case of DVB-T2, I have found it in my setup in a few channels (even if I watching very seldom that channels), and didn't noticed same issue.

Also I checked your log, don't know if now is the same situation is present, but looks like you had the TVHeadend 4.2 and 4.3 too installed:

2021-11-09 03:57:13.212 T:1449 INFO <general>: CAddonMgr::FindAddons: service.tvheadend42 v9.80.11.125 installed

2021-11-09 03:57:13.212 T:1449 INFO <general>: CAddonMgr::FindAddons: service.tvheadend43 v10.80.2.102 installed

and:

Nov 09 04:26:20.700309 LE tvheadend[360]: TS: PRG-U/642MHz/Nova: AAC-LATM @ #274 Continuity counter error

....

Nov 09 04:26:27.350300 LE tvheadend[360]: tsfix: transport stream AAC-LATM, DTS discontinuity. DTS = 22256813, last = 22068651

....

You have a lot of transport stream AAC-LATM, DTS discontinuity and Continuity counter error, so trying with another version of TVH, another tuner, checking the antenna cable and connections... could be a good idea...

Hi,

I don't think to be a Kodi or Libreelec issue. It's something with PVR backend-frontend.

Please share some details about your device, TVHeadend(?) versions, if the server is on same RPi...

I'm using 3 RPi3's in local network, LE11, TVHeadend server 4.3, 3 tuners (2x DVB-C, 1x DVB-T2) and don't experienced any similar issue.

If you use the TVH server 4.3, maybe try the 4.2 to see if same issue produced. No need to uninstall the 4.3, only disable it in addon settings.

To verify if a frontend or backend (server) issue, try to install the Kodi on another device (laptop, phone-android) and check it.

About "write-caching" and 6TB NTFS... no idea. I used once for few hours a HDD as "File server". As I don't need big a storage, and for me was too anoying the noise of the drive... replaced with a cheap 32GB USB stick (now 128GB). Also anything what mechanically moving... wears out... (I'm an eficiency maniac ).

Another side, even if the data coruption will be almost eliminated, I don't think to be safe for data and hardware the "just flip the power switch" method. If the power go down when the HDD working (write cycle), is some chance to damage the HDD (head or disk fault). And losing some TB of data... Few years ago, I strugled a day to recover only 5GB of data (vacation pictures and movies) for a good friend from an defective HDD...

If you have power cuts (or use the power switch), maybe could be an idea to use an SSD (no moving parts ) for "active data" (TV recording, etc.) and once a day or week to move it to HDD. The HDD most of time can be in IDLE (hdparm), and the data copy/move can be resolved automatically with a cron job.

Quote from LybsterKodi

ExFAT looks like the answer, at least with my experiments with a 600GB USB drive.

ExFAT was developed for removable media. Probably the write cache is disabled if the system detect the exFAT partition.

You can check the write cache status in SSH terminal: hdparm -W /dev/sda (if sda is your USB "big" disk).

If not disabled by default, maybe is possible to disable the write cache: hdparm -W 0 /dev/sda - use it in autostart.sh.

I have an 128GB USB stick for media storage (exFAT), and this is in my case the default write cache status:

Quote from LybsterKodi

I've now tried with a couple of different disks, even formatted the smaller (600GB) one to Ext4 but still the same problem. Also tried plugging into the USB 2 port rather than the USB 3 - no difference.

Looks like I'll be sticking with the RPi3 setup.

Hi,

Did you tried another format type or only NTFS and Ext4?

I'm not an expert in this matter, but I think is used a write buffer for disk write. Maybe that buffer sometimes didn't written to the disk correctly (power issue or another bug?).

As I had issues with NTFS partitions in my PC under Linux (dual boot: W11 & Xubuntu for Android build environment), I'm using an ExFAT partition for data what I want to be accessible in the both OS. I you have some spare small disks, maybe is worth to try it.

That "advancedsettings.xml" options are valid for the disk write buffer too, or is possible to be disabled in other way?

Hi, do you really need simultaneous audio? I was in the same situation, HDMI+USB audio (now HDMI & I2S DAC ), basically using the USB/DAC for music and net radio. I had issues too with pulse audio, quality, sometimes works, sometimes not, struggled a lot to make to work stable. Now I'm using the "Audio Profiles" addon, what able to switch the audio output for different media format. If you don't need to have simultaneous audio (another challenge to synchronize the HDMI and the USB delay...), only different output for different type of media, try it. More info here: https://kodi.wiki/view/Add-on:Audio_Profiles