Posts by HiassofT

    It's actually quite easy:

    create 2 partitions, a 512MB (better 1GB) FAT partition (for "boot/flash") and another one, some 5-10GB (or larger, depending on your needs) ext4 one (for "disk/storage")

    Then copy everything from the FAT partition of the LE USB thumbdrive to the FAT partition on your harddisk / ssd.

    Now run "blkid" (as root) and note the UUID values of your boot/flash and disk/storage partitions.

    Then edit /etc/grub.d/40_custom and add a block like this - replace the UUIDs of the "--set=root ..." and "boot=UUID=..." entries with the one from your boot/flash FAT partition and the "disk=UUID=..." one with the one of your ext4 storage partition

    Code
    menuentry "LibreELEC" {
        insmod part_gpt
        insmod fat
        search --no-floppy --fs-uuid --set=root 2DBA-D3CB
        linux /KERNEL boot=UUID=2DBA-D3CB disk=UUID=191250c6-b51d-4205-8832-c40a18ca24da quiet
    }

    now run "update-grub" and enjoy.

    so long,

    Hias

    Please provide pastekodi/pastecrash logfiles, system configuration, journal etc are extremely important, pure kodi logs don't help heere

    Please provide a full debug log.

    How to post a log (wiki)

    1. Enable debugging in Settings>System Settings>Logging
    2. Restart Kodi
    3. Replicate the problem
    4. Generate a log URL (do not post/upload logs to the forum)

    use "Settings > LibreELEC > System > Paste system logs" or run "pastekodi" over SSH, then post the URL link

    As you didn't post any debug logs yet it's really hard to tell what's causing your issues (sorry, my crystal ball is still on repair).

    A few hints though: you can easily check if your RPi is suffering from under-power issues with vcgencmd get_throttled - insufficient power supply by using random phone chargers etc is still the number one cause of "this damn thing doesn't work reliably".

    If you connect some external peripherals like SSDs also have a look at their power ratings. I don't have an EVO 870 laying around on a shelf but the 500 GB EVO 850 I found in the spare box mentions "5V 1.4A" on it's label. Now keep in mind the RPi4 will at maximum deliver 1.2A (together!) on all USB ports and do the math. Even if you don't have an USB keyboard plugged in it won't be enough (and your USB->SATA adapter will need some power, too).

    Some 250GB Micron and Sandisk SSDs I found in the box even need 1.6 or 1.7 amps.

    Long story short: don't use any scrap parts you find somewhere in a drawer and assume they will just work although the specs say otherwise. Would you expect an RTX 4090 to work reliably in some ancient PC with a 200W PS? Certainly not, and you can't blame the PC for that.

    so long,

    Hias

    I don't think the SATA adapter is the issue either, because I tried 2 costly brands and same problems.

    Ruling out the adapter may have been premature. They seem to be hit-and-miss, there are tons of reports on the RPi forums of various issues with lots of adapters.

    Run 'lsusb', note the vendor and product IDs (the 1234:5678 number) and search for that on the RPi forums https://forums.raspberrypi.com

    Also note that there are some adapters with different internal revisions and the same ID around, some revs will work and some others won't but you can't easily tell that just from the ID numbers. Yes, it's all a mess.

    so long,

    Hias

    Am I really missing anything with DV compared to HDR10?

    Dolby Labs will of course tell you so, but the reality is that you won't notice much difference unless you have display equipment costing in the 5-7 digits USD/EUR range (eg professional cinema projectors).

    See also the conclusion in the rtings article https://www.rtings.com/tv/learn/hdr10-vs-dolby-vision

    Quote

    Ultimately, the difference between the three formats isn't that important. The quality of the TV itself has a much bigger impact on HDR. Both formats can produce much more dynamic images than what we used to see, and HDR delivers a more impactful movie experience as long as the TV displays it properly. There are limitations with HDR, though, because TVs can't reach the 10,000 nit peak brightness and all the colors HDR is capable of, but most TVs still deliver a satisfying HDR experience.

    so long,

    Hias

    The power button will maybe be good for safely rebooting when LibreElec/Kodi freezes (?). Maybe you can hold the button for 5s and it will trigger a reboot.

    The power button works pretty much as on a PC: if you press it for a shot time it'll do a graceful shutdown and if it hold it for 5s it'll do a hard poweroff (needed when the system/kernel completely locked up).

    so long,

    Hias

    I just received my RPI4 on Friday, to find out that there's now an RPi5 on the way. ;(

    No worries, the RPi4 is still an excellent device. And as it draws less power than the RPi5 it's also easier to put it in a passively cooled case.

    I can't comment on cooling requirements yet as I neither have the official active cooler nor the official active cooled case here (and OFC third-party cases or heatsinks are yet to come) but I'd guess it'd overheat (and throttle) quickly if you'd just put it into a simple plastic case without a fan.

    Personally I'm a huge fan of passively, fanless, cooled systems as there are no mechanic parts that will make noise or wear out sooner or later. For RPi4 there are various proven cooling cases/heatsinks (I like the "armor case" a lot, some others prefer the Flirc case) and we'll yet have to see what will come (and work) for the RPi5.

    so long,

    Hias

    Is for test purposes only and I will delete it after is done.

    https://mega.nz/file/EogjmIRD#…6euyM9vpLMM-LZc

    RPi5 was bored with that. Roughly 20% CPU load (15-30%, most of the time around 20%)

    so long,

    Hias

    I wonder if you can test a SW playback of an AV1 10bit media as well Link

    That file seems to be an 8bit one and it was a bit short.

    Testing showed roughly 40% CPU load and playback seemed smooth.

    so long,

    Hias