Posts by HiassofT

Which LE version are you using? LE 9 (alpha) contains significant improvements in IR remote handling that make them react a lot snappier.

If sometimes button presses aren't recognized make sure you have good IR reception - try placing the IR somewhere else - and you have fresh batteries in your remote. Worn out buttons, interference from fluorescent lights or direct sunlight, and the type of IR receiver (there are better and not so good ones) can also cause issues.

You can adjust the repeat delay (time until repeat kicks in) and repeat period ("frequency" of repeat) with the ir-keytable parameters -D (delay) and -P (period). eg add this to your autostart.sh to let repeat kick in after 750ms and then repeat 4 times a second:

ir-keytable -D 750 -P 250

so long,

Hias

Quote from novalis

Can I also use this to make this working as systemwide keyboard on Ubuntu?

Haven't tested it myself but it should work, too. You need to place the config in /etc/ then, of course.

Actually just running "sudo ir-keytable -p mce_kbd" should be enough to get input from your MCE keyboard working.

so long,

Hias

RPi2 is a bit underpowered for this job. You probably need to restrict resolution to 480p and / or maximum bandwidth to 2-3MBit/sec to get smooth playback.

With an RPi3B+ 720p Netflix streams work fine out-of-the-box. I've enabled a bit of overclocking on it as well,but mainly to get 1080p HEVC working nicely

[Pi3+]
gpu_freq=500
over_voltage=2
sdram_freq=580
over_voltage_sdram=5
sdram_schmoo=0x02000020

I wouldn't hold my breath for hardware accelerated Netflix playback on RPi, this is mainly a licensing and DRM issue.

so long,

Hias

Either buy a Synology NAS if you want something off the shelf or buy a HP Microserver and install OpenMediaVault or FreeNAS on it.

Stay away from consumer / home NAS systems, typically they have terrible software support.

so long,

Hias

Thanks a lot for the info!

CvH prepared a testbuild with (hopefully) fixed DVB driver addons: libreelec-generic.x86_64-9.0-devel-20180825192028-5069809.img.gz

Could you test with that and report back if it worked?

so long,

Hias

Thanks for the feedback! I've asked CvH , our DVB driver maintainer, to include a fix for it. I'll drop you a line when an updated build is available.

BTW: The user manual of the remote mentions that it supports various remote codes (selectable with back+number)

9364782.pdf

Could you tell use which configuration you used and post scancodes for the other remote code settings as well (if they use the rc6 protocol)? Just posting the scancode of a single button (eg "1") with the various configurations would do fine.

so long,

Hias

It's just for testing. Please try to disable it and check if you get proper scancodes with ir-keytable -t / evtest.

I suspect that patch from LE could be missing in the CrazyCat addon. If that's the case I'd like to write a proper patch for the issue which I can send upstream and include both in LE base kernel and the CrazyCat drivers (the patch in LE is not good and needed fixing for a long time).

so long,

Hias

Do you have any of the DVB driver addons enabled? If yes, which one and does the issue also occur if you disable it?

so long,

Hias

Which platform / build and which of IR receiver are you using? Please upload your dmesg output

dmesg | paste

The xxxx8xxx/xxxx0xxx scancode change you are seeing is the toggle bit (it flips if you release a button and then press it again).

But this is quite odd, LE kernel contains a patch that enables the toggle bit on all RC6 protocol variants, not only on the original Microsoft MCE. So you should never get a xxxx8xxx scancode, only xxxx0xxx ones...

linux-057-removed-mce-customer-code-restriction-in-rc6-decode.patch

so long,

Hias

It may be worth giving the current LE9 alpha version (8.90.003) or a current Milhouse build (see LibreELEC Testbuilds for RaspberryPi (Kodi 18.0) ) a try.

Quite a lot of ethernet and Wifi fixes for the RPi3B+ are included in these builds that are not in 8.2.5.

Also test the network performance (using iperf3 from the network-tools addon and a iperf3 client on some other box in your LAN), DLAN / powerline adapters can be problematic as well. Test with a "real" ethernet connection (ethernet cables and a switch) to see if this is an issue.

I can't comment on UPNP / DLNA, never used this.

so long,

Hias

ffmpeg HEVC optimization patches are included in LE master tree, what's currently missing in LE master tree are the kodi patches needed to use these.

so long,

Hias

I haven't used the keymap editor for ages so don't know if it's working or if it maybe has some issues.

Mapping remote buttons via a remote.xml file in /storage/.kodi/userdata/keymaps/ is working fine though.

Here's the remote.xml I'm using for my Hauppauge remote. I've remapped the power button to show the shutdown dialog window so my RPi doesn't unconditionally shut down if I accidentally press it.

 <keymap>
  <global>
    <remote>
      <power>ActivateWindow(ShutdownMenu)</power>
    </remote>
  </global>
  <FullscreenVideo>
    <remote>
      <red>AudioNextLanguage</red>
      <blue>ActivateWindow(SubtitleSearch)</blue>
      <green>SubtitleDelayMinus</green>
      <yellow>SubtitleDelayPlus</yellow>
      <star>ActivateWindow(Teletext)</star>
      <hash>NextSubtitle</hash>
    </remote>
  </FullscreenVideo>
  <FullscreenLiveTV>
    <remote>
      <livetv>ActivateWindow(PVROSDChannels)</livetv>
      <guide>ActivateWindow(PVRChannelGuide)</guide>
    </remote>
  </FullscreenLiveTV>
  <PVROSDChannels>
    <remote>
      <left>PreviousChannelGroup</left>
      <right>NextChannelGroup</right>
      <reverse>PreviousChannelGroup</reverse>
      <forward>NextChannelGroup</forward>
      <livetv>Close</livetv>
    </remote>
  </PVROSDChannels>
  <TVChannels>
    <remote>
      <reverse>PreviousChannelGroup</reverse>
      <forward>NextChannelGroup</forward>
      <livetv>Menu</livetv>
      <red>Container.NextViewMode</red>
    </remote>
  </TVChannels>
  <TVGuide>
    <remote>
      <reverse>PreviousChannelGroup</reverse>
      <forward>NextChannelGroup</forward>
      <guide>Menu</guide>
      <red>Container.SetViewMode(10)</red>
      <green>Container.SetViewMode(11)</green>
      <yellow>Container.SetViewMode(12)</yellow>
    </remote>
  </TVGuide>
  <Teletext>
    <remote>
      <star>Back</star>
    </remote>
  </Teletext>
</keymap>

Enable debug logging in kodi and watch the kodi log with tail -f .kodi/temp/kodi.log while you press buttons to see which buttons are mapped to which keynames ("power", "red", "forward", ..).

The available actions and general info about remote/keyboard mapping are described in the kodi wiki Keymap - Official Kodi Wiki

so long,

Hias

Update to LE 8.2.5 and remove your banned addons / repositories. I'd recommend doing a clean LE 8.2.5 installation and check if it works there.

Edit: also make sure Lirc is disabled in LE settings.

so long,

Hias

With LE9 you can just put a lircd.conf file in /storage/.config/ and then reboot. in LE 8.2 you have to enable Lirc in LE settings.

But I recommend following the wiki guide and create an ir-keytable configuration, this is the modern standard in Linux and more flexible and hassle-free. Only use lirc if you have an odd remote that is not supported yet by ir-keytable.

so long,

Hias

The hardware is identical for all RPis, just buy a TSOP34448 and connect it to the GPIO pins.

Then add "dtoverlay=gpio-ir" to config.txt to enable the Linux IR driver.

Read through this wiki page Infrared Remotes [LibreELEC.wiki] for info on how to configure the system for your particular remote.

so long,

Hias

Thanks a lot for the ir-ctl output!

It looks similar to a rc-6 signal, but not quite. The pulse/space lengths should be 222-666 or 666-1110 (except for the first one and another pulse/space mark at the beginning which are longer).

Your output shows some very small values of about 100 or less, so the signal can't be decoded properly.

Which rev of the atric IR-Einschalter are you using? The manual of rev5 mentions changes that resolved issues with some com ports. A mismatch in signal levels would explain these length deviations.

There were a couple of posts on the atric forum mentioning issues with unclean/noisy power supplies (and having to add resistors and/or filtering caps or a newer/fixed IR receiver+cable to cure them). This could also explain the issues, most IR receivers are rather sensitive to noise on the power supply.

On the system/software side the only thing the only thing that could cause these timing variations is IRQ latency. Check /proc/interrupts and make sure serial_ir is the only device using IRQ4, if some other device is using this IRQ as well go into the BIOS setup and move that device to it's own interrupt.

so long,

Hias

Which LE version are you using?

The timeouts reported by ir-ctl are fine, they should be shown after each pulse/space train (or at least after button release).

I've tested serial_ir a couple of months ago on an ancient P4 motherboard with on-board COM port and it worked fine there.

I can't really comment on your mainboard, but post the ir-ctl -r output of a short button press - this could already give some hints on what the issue could be.

It could be an electrical problem, so it would be good if you described the hardware you are using. In my tests I used a 5V compatible TSOP IR receiver and picked up +5V from an USB port of my PC. Then just connected GND and the TSOP IR output to the COM port.

so long,

Hias

The maximum speed or class (10, UHS, ...) rating is rather meaningless, the important thing is random access performance.

As a rule of thumb stay away from noname / generic brand cards (they can be terribly slow or even utter crap) and go for cards with Class A1 rating.

Here's a recent speed comparison: https://forum.armbian.com/topic/954-sd-card-performance/?do=findcomment&comment=49811

I recently bought a bunch of Sandisk Extreme A1 32GB cards and I'm very happy with them. Samsung EVO are also OK, but with "EVO", "EVO+" and "EVO Plus" (yeah, I have all 3 variants) and different performance of these series I'd just go for Sandisk A1 where the situation is a bit simpler

Edit: Oh, and only buy from reputable dealers, there are a lot of fake cards out there.

so long,

Hias