Posts by JonSnow


    While i do agree an ssd will be faster is it really that noticeable? Have you tested the read/write of the SD/USB on a computer? To make sure it a good card/usb, mainly need to find something that has good sequential read/write speeds.


    A fast SD card should be enough to handle 4k thumbnails, unless of course the SD card reader on you box is cheap and slow.


    Have you considered flashing on the internal storage? Mines has been extremely smooth on internal storage.

    Why?


    Just get a fast SD card or USB Key. Using an SSD is a waste since the usb ports will max at 480mbps.


    You could try Rufus to write the image and see if that works with the SSD, LE will only boot from one of the USB ports so try each port with the toothpick method until you find the correct port.


    Lastly to rule out an SSD issue why not use any random USB Key just to test yourself?

    Thanks for the hint. I have now changed a few settings there, for example that my TV and AVR are not shutdown when kodi is and so on. But I was not able to find a setting that would help with my problem.


    And I found another weird behavior:
    When the Box is connected to the AVR and the AVR and box are shutdown via TV (triggered by TV shutdown). The TV is not able to power the AVR on again, and even if I power on the AVR manually it will not play any sound from the TV until the kodi box is powered up again. It seems like the box kinda breaks the CEC link between TV and AVR. If i disconnect the box completely everything works as usual.
    Could this be a issue with the device tree? I used the one without NAND for S905x


    That's why I just leave my box on 24/7, CEC is still enabled and works using the TV remote. When the TV is powered off it powers the AVR as well but the LE box stays running. What I've found out for my setup is in order to turn on the AVR via CEC from the TV remote you need an active HDMI source.


    I wanted my TV remote to control everything so that was another reason why I just leave the box on 24/7, so no need for the stock IR remote.

    I just finished upgrading to Krypton and all my DTS files now show Dolby Digital on my TV and AVR, on Jarvis it would show DTS instead. Also the number of channels has to be set to 2.0 for it to show Dolby Digital, if i set it to 5.1 (which is what I have) i only get PCM 2.0 audio.


    Yes passthrough is enabled and so are the formats my AVR supports.


    EDIT: Turns out you can no longer have "Sync to Display" enabled for passthrough.


    I always have better luck clicking the start button and then plugging in the usb cable into my computer. The app detects and starts flashing the boot loader, otherwise I get errors.


    Haven't been posting much but have been reading the posts. 012f failed to boot on the 9th reboot, this is a major improvement as with past builds it never went above 3 reboots.


    I have on very rare occasions seen my box freeze even with the temp sensor disabled builds, such was the case when trying to flash F with sensors enabled, had to pull the plug for the update to kick in. So it could be my box just has issues, i have tinkered and even opened it.

    What are the risks for running with the temp sensor disabled? I don't care if the box burns up, its just i leave it on 24/7 and hoping the box will die before it catches fire. If it ever comes to that.


    Does anyone know if these boxes come with hardware temp sensors or it stickly software?


    Well my Minix box runs great WHEN it boots, but booting can sometimes be 10m+ ordeal so I've been leaving my box on.


    Flashed gcb8de5f to internal, 10 boots in a row. I've NEVER gotten 2 boots in a row. It's always resulted in my having to pull power, HDMI, pray to the gods, sacrifice a chicken and maybe get a 2nd boot.


    So this fix rocks. Now we need a Kodi 17 RC1 build . lol.


    can you flash stock 011 minix u1 firmware and then install 012 with temp enabled?


    Based on the changelog its fixes the boot issue, which means it should boot with temp build
    Official Release - NEO U1 FW011 - 20161201 | MINIX Forum - Official

    Checked the U-boot version from bootloader.img inside the custom android FW
    but i don't dare flashing the bootloader on my last working box..
    anyways it's U-Boot 2015.01-g8759eac (May 06 2016 - 14:40:59) versus
    U-Boot 2015.01-g937dd3a (Apr 20 2016 - 11:39:18) from minimx 107L


    i tried and from LE it bricks the box, flashed stock 107L then flashed the CFW then LE. looked like it was fixed but around 5th reboot it hanged. Will stick to beelink uboot with temp disabled until minix users say its resolved for them.

    my beelink minimxiii still has boot issues, do we need to start from scratch? Still gets stuck at the beelink logo.


    Also get an error when flashing, tried creating a new usb key and used installtointernall then restored my backup, then tried updating again from the update folder.

    Code
    error opening lock file /var/lock/fw_printenv.lock
    0+1 records in
    0+1 records out



    EDIT: just saw the disabled sensor build. What are the risks? i'm not to worried if the box burns up, just don't want a potential fire hazard plugged in 24/7.
    EDIT2: boot issue is resolved with disabled temp sensor build, however still get the locked error when updating from the update folder.


    Thank you kostaman.


    Tests result: the reason behind freezing is outdated BL30 blob (a part of u-boot) that causes freezing during saradc initialization (S905 temperature sensor).


    I guess I now have 3 ways to go:

    • tell users to update their Android firmware - that would leave boxes with outdated/no-newer-version-available firmware frozen
    • disable temperature sensor in my builds
    • provide additional system image with temperature sensor disabled


    So we basically need a updated uboot? I assume updating to a ported Minix U1 Android firmware will not update uboot, much the same when installing LE.


    613673-minix-neo-u1-firmware-port-for-minimxiii-ánd-mini-mx-prerooted-twrp-recovery

    ahh yes that did the trick. I will say the third kernel test is for sure easier to boot when it hangs.
    [hr]
    Could it be related to remote.conf? I tried test3 and now rebooting stock 011 and cannot get it to hang.

    The flash partition didn't have remote.conf which is why my remote never worked. I decided to mount the flash partition as RW and copied my remote.conf that I made when switching from Android.


    Nope: not related to remote.conf