@vitorp07 - A big "Thank you" from me as well. I also saw this issue a while back and figured that it needed looking at by someone with more knowledge than I can bring to the table. Still trying to workout what you did to fix it...
Anyway, I just spent a happy couple of hours playing some music and really enjoying the fact that this visualizer is working again. Thanks again.
Unfortunately, my TV doesn't offer access to this setting. Been rummaging through the menus like a madman. No luck. Sounds like it is an easy fix for those with that option available, though. I will try it at family members' TV and their LibreElec boxes. But, at the moment I cannot confirm this solution. Luckily, I had success with the alternative solution offered by S80_UK.
[hr]Thanks for chiming in. And you are right, indeed; my TV doesn't offer the option of enabling "just scan" or manually setting it to 16:9 or similar.
I've been looking for this (now painfully obvious) solution every now and then since august and intensively the last 2½ weeks. Thought I missed out on some Kodi lingo, since I couldn't google the answer. I'm relieved and embarrassed to learn that I can simply calibrate from within the player interface by accessing the settings - which I needed to do (once) for each change of frame rate (media, live TV, etc). Lovely. It works now.
A daily 'bug' in enjoying media - and an unjust and negative perception of Kodi in this matter - has finally been laid to rest on my part. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge.
You're welcome. 
I'm a long time user (since XBMC on Apple TV, 1st gen, around 2009), so been there, done that, etc. My Panasonic 37 inch plasma from 2007 refuses to die, and still gives a great picture. Something to do with the fact that in those days Panasonic put slow running fans in the chassis so that the electronics and panel remain cool.
2. When I play a movie, video clip or TV channel the video player interface exceeds the size of my TV screen, just as the Kodi interface did before I calibrated it. The video player simply does not adhere to the defined calibration. Exiting to Kodi itself yields the correct size of the Kodi menus, etc. Only the video player interface is staying at its fixed proportions.How can I control and calibrate the size of the video player interface?
If the video player is using a different frame-rate to the UI (check video player settings) then you either need to use the settings to calibrate for the different framerates, or prevent the framerate from changing, or you need to run the calibration from the playing video screen (pop up the media controls and video calibration is down the video processing options menu).
I know that the recommendation is always to set the TV to "just scan" but plenty of older TVs don't have that option.
It depends on the enclosure and how you cool the processor...
And the power supply and the USB lead from the supply. Many power issues are caused by excessive voltage losses in the USB lead.
Unless you need to, the most reliable option will be not to overclock.
ok, thanks for the replay, but why i can see it on P1 ?
Maybe because "hidden" SSIDs are still visible if you know how to look. One reason why there is very little point in hiding them.
I have a similar experience. My 2006 Panasonic 37 inch plasma has 720p as its preferred input resolution via HDMI, but the panel is actually a prehistoric 1024x768 - It was 10 years ago! The TV has no adjustment for overscan so I always have to use the screen calibration in Kodi, pulling in left and right by about 30 pixels on each side, but generally once it is set it stays as I need it. Another more modern TV that I have with a 1080p panel always "just works".
I keep promising myself a new TV, but the old one still works very well indeed.
So has anyone experimented with using a thermoelectric cooling device on their board cpu? Was thinking about buy something like this and seeing how it goes. Will need a bigger psu too but if I connect onto the connector inside the case it will be cooling the whole time. Not that my box is running extremely hot but keeping cpu cool especially under high load can only help right??Thermoeolectric cooling modules Cooler Cooler TES1-04903 20*20mm
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(from AliExpress Android)Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
Never used one for anything like this, but I know a bit about them. First point is that they aren't really coolers, at least, not by themselves - they are heat pumps. They take power from an external supply (which means they generate heat) and they use what is known as the Peltier effect to create a temperature difference between the two sides. So, you have to also add a nice big heatsink, which will you mount on the hot side of the device, such that it can perhaps limit that side to maybe 50 or 60 degrees, then the cooler side will be able to take some heat from the chip you put it on and cool it to about 30 to 40 degrees. The down side is that for trying to cool chips in small media players, the heat pump would generate several times more heat than the whole player gave out in the first place, so it's not really that great an idea.
My latest LE master (Kodi 17) build now uses 340.96 in place of 304.131. On my Revo 3700 with ION2 I'm not seeing any obvious difference.Index of /builds/master/Generic/
If there are no issues it's something we will consider updating officially in LE8.
I'd welcome this too. The 304.131 driver works quite well, but it can very occasionally result in skipped frames when playing blu-ray rips (I have Asus AT5IONT-I). The possible switch to 340.96 was discussed in the OE forums as well, but without any definite conclusion. It's the main reason that I and some others currently produce our own builds. I haven't yet got very far with building LibreELEC but will try soon, I'm sure. I have a spare machine to do it, but I'm no expert regarding the software itself.
