Posts by noggin

  • Issues with AAC 5.1 using German DVB-T2

    Quote from backslash

    I am facing a strange issue with AAC 5.1 here in Germany using latest LE and Tvheadend for watching DVB-T2. While watching live tv with AAC 5.1 audio I have no issues but if I try to watch a recording (e.g. of the same programe) which includes AAC 5.1 audio I am facing annoying audio hick-ups. Is Kodi relying on differtent audio decoders for live tv and recordings? This is pretty annoying because any recording which includes AAC 5.1 audio is sadly unwatchable. I started using Kodi with Krypton and the DVB-T2 release here in Germany and was facing the issue independent of LE and Kodi Krypton version. I installed 8.1.1 beta recently from scratch and the issue remains. Any ideas?

    The UK has been using AAC 5.1 for a while on DVB-T2 (we're AC3 on satellite but AAC on terrestrial) and I've not noticed any issues with playback (though there have been some 5.1 -> 2.0 mix down issues where I don't think AAC mix-down metadata is followed as well as AC3).

    I'll check a recording of a BBC One HD 5.1 drama I made over the weekend with various LibreElec installs - as I have it in both AAC 5.1 (from T2) and AC3 5.1 (from S2).

    I'd heard Germany was using E-AC3 on DVB-T2 (as France does on DVB-T for HD) - is there a split between broadcaster?

    ALSO - have you tried watching the file outside of the PVR sub-system (i.e. playing it from Videos by mounting your Recorded TV folder as a source in Videos->Files or copying it to a location available to Videos->Files?)

  • [8.2.3.1] LibreELEC 8.2 for S905/S905X

    Ah - I had assumed the S905W was HDMI 1.4b (as there is no need for 2160/60p output if 2160/30p decode is the limit) - and so no HDR.

    Are they really deploying S905Ws with HDMI 2.0 outputs?

  • 4.1 surround via optical cable

    Quote from delz

    Thanks for your answer. So I have enabled allow passthrough, Dolby Digital AC3 reciver, and DTS capable receiver. Should audio output device be AML M8 Audio Analog PCM or HDMI? And should I put 4.1 in number of channels, or 5.1 and let the tv or audio system make it work on my 4.1 system?

    Thanks again!

    I think the simple answer is select 2.0 as your number of channels, then enable DD passthrough - and when you select 2.0 channels an additional 'transcode to AC3' (or maybe DD) option will appear which you can also select. This will transcode multichannel non-Dolby audio to Dolby 5.1. I think the transcode option only appears when you select 2.0 channel output.

    (Yes - I know the 2.0 channels is confusing - but that is all you want output in PCM over HDMI - you don't want PCM 5.1 or 7.1.)

    I'd try the HDMI audio device first, and then the Analog PCM second.

    Whether your TV supports HDMI->DTS optical passthrough I don't know. Some do, some don't. If it doesn't then you can disable DTS Passthrough and your DTS 5.1 stuff will be transcoded to DD 5.1 (I think at 640kbps - so good bitrate)

  • LibreELEC on RPi zero w

    Quote from DaVu

    Depending on which system you are, you are also able to use some remote app from your smartphone. There is "Yatse" and/or "Kore" for Android devices and a bunch for iOS devices as well.

    There is also the Flirc dongle (which is a thing I use myself). With that you are able to use ANY IR remote you own. There are many how-to videos for the Flirc dongle on Youtube.

    If the remote you already ordered doesn't fit your needs, then I would take a look at Flirc ;)

    If you are OK at soldering - then you can add a ~$1 TSOP to the GPIO pins of a Raspberry Pi and that will get you support for lots of IR remotes too.

    I added one to a Pi Zero W for a minimalist LibreElec build (the official Pi Case for the Zero W has a camera lid with a hole perfect for a TSOP to be glued in to! Made a very neat little box for use with a cheap IR remote. (I used one that came with a USB TV Tuner a while back)

    I've got a first gen Flirc, and it's very nice, but it costs more than twice the price of a Pi Zero W - so for a low cost build, a GPIO IR receiver can be a good fit.

  • Migration from RPi3 to what? H.265 needed!

    AMLogic S905 or S905X ARM box running LibreElec is fine with 2160/60p HEVC - so will be fine with 1080/50p DVB-T2 stuff in Germany.

    If you want to go barebones then an ODroid C2 (you will need to add a WiFI dongle). If you want a fully packaged box then have a look at the AMLogic S905 threads elsewhere in the forum. 5GHz WIFI internally may narrow the field though. (An external USB or Ethernet WiFi adaptor may be preferable)

    Depending on your DVB-T2 tuner you may want to keep the Raspberry Pi 3 as a TV Headend server - as it has better kernel support for recent drivers.

    The GBP£5 XBox One DVB-T/T2/C tuner has very early Linux support - and I've got two running fine on a Pi 3 in the UK - receiving DVB-T2 H264 1080i stuff here with a Pi 3 simply running as a TV Headend server. However for multiple streams a Pi 3 isn't a perfect fit as Ethernet and USB all share a single USB 2.0 bus.

  • FiveNinjas Slice LibreELEC preview build

    Quote from chewitt

    This is a LibreELEC image for the FiveNinjas "Slice" box based on the standard RPi and RPi2 image(s) with patches to support the CS4265 audio DAC and WS2812 LED ring in the Slice box. Other features like lirc disable and log submission have been incorporated into the main LibreELEC image. As the original SliceOS skin was never updated for Krypton (and has font licensing issues) the image uses Estuary. To achieve a more Slice-blue look set the "midnight" colour scheme.

    GitHub sources for the images are normally up to date here: GitHub - chewitt/LibreELEC.tv at slice-8.0

    Instructions for updating SliceOS and clean-install images for CM(1) and CM3 cards are on the website: downloads – LibreELEC

    NB: Please post all questions to this thread. I will not answer PM messages!

    Enjoy :)

    Hi there

    I am trying to flash a new CM3 in my Slice - and can't find an img.gz file to download on the LibreElec downloads section - just a manual .tar update file?

    Am I missing something? Is there a way of flashing a clean new install with the .tar file?

    **EDIT - Phew, found the image in this blog post : LibreELEC (Krypton) v8.1.0 BETA – LibreELEC **

    Would be useful if the Slice option on the main LibreElec download page included it too :)

  • 6£ / 12€ DVB-C/T2 USB Stick -> Xbox One Digital TV Tuner

    Quote from CvH

    yes already seen that behaviour for others too - no idea why this happens

    try 1.1 from here Index of /Test/xbox/

    this is 100% the tree from trsqr so it should work - if not then it is a LE problem we have to find :)

    Sadly no change with 1.1. Still all Crystal Palace muxes fail.

    Swapped back to my self-build Jessie Lite + TV Headend build and all working (no hardware changes)

    My working TV Headend build is 4.2.3-19~g490b6f2

    The TV Headend build I installed under your LE builds is build 4.2.2-75

    Just in case there are any differences? ISTR there was a PLP issue - but wasn't sure if that was driver or TVH related?

    dmesg | grep dvb seems pretty much identical for both (other than a kernel tainted warning in LibreElec)

  • Hauppauge Quad tv tuner

    Quote from TerrH

    Running libreelec v8.0.2 just enough os. changed the refresh rate to 50Hz, can't find 'adjust refresh rate'.

    Settings->Player->Videos->Adjust Display Refresh Rate (It's a player option rather than a video output option so in a different settings menu)

    (You may need Expert or Advanced settings enabled to see this option)

  • Hauppauge Quad tv tuner

    What platform are you running Kodi on?

    TV Headend, MythTV and VDR backends - unless transcoding has been enabled - will all deliver identical digital bitstreams to Kodi when using a digital TV tuner (Whether DVB-T, ATSC, ISDB-T etc.) There is no process that will impact picture quality if the tuner is receiving an error free broadcast signal.

    How Kodi displays the video stream WILL impact picture quality. You need to ensure things like :

    Deinterlacing is high quality and properly configured. THis will vary by platform (some Android devices have lousy deinterlacing - or none)

    Refresh rate of the output matches that of the broadcast (lots of devices will default to 59.94/60Hz output but if you are watching TV in Europe/Aus/NZ and large parts of Asia, and some bits of South America, you will want 50Hz output)

    I configure my Kodi devices to have a default refresh rate of 50Hz (because I live in Europe and the bulk of my viewing is 50Hz Live/Recorded TV, plus DVD and TV Blu-rays - which are all 25p or 50i). If I watch a movie or US TV series then because I have 'Adjust Refresh Rate' enabled (on start/stop) Kodi will switch to 23.976/24.000Hz - or 59.94Hz in some cases - if I watch a non-25/50Hz source.

  • Cheap DVB-T/T2/C tuner (at least in the UK)

    Hi there

    Just a heads up that the Xbox One DVB-T/T2/C USB tuner - which is widely available in the UK for around a fiver (GBP£5-6) now has improving Linux support. It was/is sold to add TV functionality to the XBox One games console, but now has Linux drivers. It used to be pretty low cost, but now the price has dropped massively. (In London I got same day delivery with Amazon Prime when I ordered two)

    Drivers haven't made it into Media Build quite yet - but they are looking very good (and cope with multiple tuners). If you don't run TV Headend on your LibreElec machine, and are confident compiling your own drivers - definitely worth a look.

    I've spent this evening getting two working on a Pi3 running Jessie Lite, and TV Headend as a proof of concept - and it works.

    Driver details here : Xbox One DVB-T/T2/C tuner - Tvheadend

  • [TESTING][S905(X)] 10bit/HDR/Dithering Test Builds & Discussion

    Quote from Raybuntu

    RedCat FYI No Amlogic box supports usb3 so you could have just got an usb2 adapter. Also USB devices can be unstable if they are not powered. Could be the adapter too or the driver but who knows.

    The main reason to buy a USB 3.0 Ethernet adaptor rather than USB 2.0 is that it is quite tricky to find USB 2.0 Gigabit Ethernet devices with decent support. Most USB 2.0 Ethernet adaptors are 10/100 only... If you want to have >100Mbs connectivity (albeit still capped to USB 2.0 400Mbs-ish speeds) you need a GigE adaptor.

    USB 3.0 Gigabit adaptors are far more common than USB 2.0, and so often the easiest way to add >100Mbs Ethernet to a USB 2.0 device is to use a USB 3.0 adaptor in USB 2.0 backwards compatibility mode. I know people who do this on ODroids and Raspberry Pis.