Posts by chewitt

    1. Press the Home button of your TV remote.
    2. Once you get to the home menu, select the cog icon (top right corner) to access the Settings menu.
    3. Go to the Picture section > Aspect Ratio.
    4. The following options are available: 16:9. Just Scan. Original. Full Wide. 4:3. 14:9.

    ^ copied from Google but ISTR my 65B7V was similar. Sometimes settings are input specific so even if you did this already for HDMI1 but are now using HDMI2 it might need to be repeated.

    Code
    DEBUG: OnPlayMedia smb://192.168.0.101/Public/Video/Animation/Serie/Overlord/S03/[LostYears] Overlord III - 13 (WEB 720p x264 10-bit AAC) [05480D45].mkv

    H.264 is an 8-bit video standard so nobody anywhere supports 10-bit hardware decode so it's CPU decoded. You need to distinguish between buffering which the advanced settings config you applied can help with and the stuttering problem you have which is all about how fast/slow the CPU is. You should probably get a heatsink for the RPi and apply some overclock to improve CPU performance.

    If you want to watch 1080p H.264 10-bit media you'll be better off with an Intel NUC or similar which has a lot more CPU performance.

    Set the SMB client settings in Kodi back to default (so it's using SMB2/SMB3) and configure the Windows end to share files to a local system user account with a username and password. Set the same username and password as the credential for Kodi to use. Network browsing will not work using SMB2+ so you must manually configure the source in Kodi. I personally find it easier to manually edit sources.xml instead of using the Kodi GUI to enter things via a remote control, and the XML format is simple, e.g.

    Code
            <source>
                <name>SHARE</name>
                <path pathversion="1">smb://username:password@SERVERS/SHARE/</path>
                <allowsharing>true</allowsharing>
            </source>

    Also make sure any firewall (or endpoint security product) allows access - perhaps disable while doing the initial test.

    My $0.02 suggestion would be to purchase a high-speed SD card and run LE from the SD card. On a fast SD card the performance difference isn't significant and spending some time to tune remote control timings (or using a better remote) will have a far bigger impact on how the GUI feels than the underlying storage medium.

    There's no reason it couldn't be done, but the current system init script doesn't support loop mounts so you'd need to customise it with the required functions to make it work. I'm not sure what you're really trying to achieve, but there's probably an easier route.

    The 1GB version of the LaFrite board has been tested with the mainline images I'm working on, but nobody anywhere outside the factory has the 512MB version of that board to run tests with so we can't promise anything. If it helps, these days I regard 1GB RAM and 8GB storage as a minimum viable configuration.

    We block lots of words that are frequently used in pharma spam. It's annoying to find words that are blocked, but the occasional apology (sorry) is less work for the forum staff than having to delete a daily deluge of pharma spam posts.

    This is what I see in the first dmesg:

    ata1.00 = link down

    ata2.00 = 6Gb/sec = WD60EFRX = /dev/sda

    ata3.00 = 3Gb/sec = Samsung 840 = /dev/sdb

    ata3.01 = 3Gb/sec = ST3000DM001 = /dev/sdc

    ata4.00 = fail to resume link / link down

    ata4.01 = fail to resume link / link down

    ata5.00 = 3Gb/sec = WD60EFRX = /dev/sdd

    ata6.00 = 3Gb/sec = WD40EFRX = /dev/sde

    This is what I see in the second dmesg:

    ata1.00 = link down

    ata2.00 = link down

    ata3.00 = 6Gb/sec = Samsung 840 = /dev/sda

    ata3.01 = 3Gb/sec = ST3000DM001 = /dev/sdb

    ata4.00 = failed to resume link / link down

    ata4.01 = failed to resume link / link down

    ata5.00 = link down

    ata6.00 = 3Gb/sec = WD60EFRX = /dev/sdc

    I'd start by updating the BIOS/firmware on whatever kind of x86 device it is you're using .. including any third-party SATA controller cards and check that everything is set to allow 6Gb/sec operation - I can see several drives that flip between the two which either indicates bad settings or bad cables or an insufficient power supply. Check the cables and jumper settings on drives. Then i'd start rebuilding with the SSD and get that on a 6Gb/sec channel. Then I'd add the two 6TB drives and ensure those come up. Then i'd add the 4TB .. then 3TB.

    As a general comment: each time I see someone struggle with cables/connectors and drives like this I think "get a NAS box" .. because media collections are so much easier when you make the HTPC a dumb/simple/cheap client device and use a decent NAS for storage.

    LE uses alsa and BT output requires pulse audio. We have both in the image but if you switch output to pulse you disconnect audio from alsa and deliberately lose the HDMI output. If you configure a custom pulse configuration it's completely possible to have pulse output to both a device and HDMI at the same time, but how that's done is not really documented anywhere so you'll need to fiddle and experiment until it works.