Posts by VLouis

    Hi, in the past I had some similar HDMI issues (RPi3B LE), always because of display recognition (HDMI cable, TV in StBy when the RPi booted). Basically if the LE don't "see" the diplay at the end of the HDMI cable... no picture at all. Did you tried with another display? Always power up first the display than the RPi to be able to "read" the display capabilities. Also you can try some settings in the config.txt related to the HDMI output (force HDMI, preset resolution... search for the config.txt documentation). In the case of the LE11/12, I think the display resolution settings are moved to the "cmdline.txt". Also you could try it with another OS (Raspberry Pi OS?). It's not impossible to be an RPi3 hardware issue, but in most of the cases is something else, don't give up so easy.

    I am using the analog output on the Pi, to a dumb stereo with no surround sound, etc.

    Hi,

    Do you have audio-video synchronization issue between the HDMI video and the analog audio output? I tried to use same thing in the past with my RPi3B, and had that issue. Don't know is in the case of RPi4B is same situation. Also the analog audio output had poor sound quality. I switched to use the GPIO digital sound output (I2S). I'm using now this, it's cheap but need some wireing to be connected, or you can use an HifiBerry-Hat built with RPi GPIO comaptible connector. I think that analog audio is on the RPi just to have a minimal sound output, mostly when is used without display. Even for a "dumb stereo with no surround sound" should be used something better when you want to listening some music.

    Hi, maybe take a look here.

    Another device, another issue... I'm using LE with RPi, in the case when the RPi restart, when the TV is in standby, had EDID issue, so I made an EDID dump with "getedid create" command. Something similar you can try... If you can save your TV's edid data with another device and put it in the right place in your Wetek?

    So my board seems to work at all and is not broken as I thought before. What I don't understand, that it is rcognized as "HifiBerry DAC" not as Digi2-Pro. And of cause, why it doesn't work with LE.

    Did you tried to add to the LE config.txt the "dtoverlay=hifiberry-dac" line?

    It's interesting why the HifiberryOS detected your boards chip as "pcm5102a". Can post here a picture with your Hifiberrry board, and another one with the chip used on the board?

    Update: several hours of testing have shown some progress: I set the WiFi router to use only IEEE802.11b/g and moved the RPi closer to the router (right next to it, in fact). Suddenly the problem disappeared.

    Then I moved the RPi away from the router again (to the point where the WiFi signal was barely enough to be useable) and LE now complains again with the "invalid-key" error and requests that I enter the "correct" key.

    So off-hand this does seem to be related to WiFi protocol implementations in some routers and/or signal strength/quality.

    Yeah, the tiny RPi onboard wifi antenna... probably a case again where the size is matter :)

    I'm doesn't had the "invald-key" problem, only the weak signal and unstable connection... so I disabled the the onboard wifi (config.txt) and I'm using an USB wifi dongle with external antenna. Far better wifi connection. If you have an USB wifi dongle or can borrow one for testing, try it...

    I'm using an unusual solution for this. Because I had too many issues with HDMI-CEC, I connected an IR receiver and an IR LED to the RPi's GPIO. Now I'm using an MCE IR remote to control the LE, with modified function of the remote "power" button, when is pressed, first send a "Stop" command to the Kodi, then send few times the propper "power" signal to the TV thru IR LED. I'm using same button to switch on the TV, just need to be pressed twice (first to wake up the Kodi).

    Hi,

    A good starting point could be to take a look at the CEC settings:

    Settings -> System -> Input -> Peripherals -> CEC Adapter.

    It's a posibility your RPi have random reboots, and thru HDMI-CEC to "grab" the TV input when the LE starting.

    If you don't use the CEC (control the Kodi with the TV remote), better to disable it completelly.

    Another thing is why your RPi have random reboots (if have it...)...

    Hi, I'm trying to understand what do you want... When you pressing the "Power" button on the TV remote, switching off the TV, want to the Kodi/LE to detect it via HDMI cable and to send a general "Stop" command to Kodi to stop all media playings ("saving power and bandwidth")? Because you often forget to stop the player before to switch of the TV?

    I think that Plan B assumes that i have a linux pc and a second hard drive with at least 2.5 tb (the data that i need to backup). I don't have the 2 conditions.

    Then plan a : I will follow some tutorials on using parted that i found on the net. If it works thats great. If no, i will only loose my library. I will survive

    I see a lot of peaple here having the same issue with ntfs. If my experience works, i will share the steps. Maybe it wil help some of them to migrate to ext4.

    Take a look to the Ventoy project, you can make your thumb drive to boot almost any (bootable) ISO file.

    What you want to do, with resizing, moving data and resizing again on same disk, is risky. If anything go wrong you will lose all your 2.5TB data. So if you have a possibility, save your data somewhere else, boot a live linux (GParted, Ubuntu...) and change the partition to EXT4, than copy back your data.

    If you will try the "plan a", the risky way, for NTFS partition resize, the MiniTool Partition Manager installed on Windows PC is a good idea, but for creating/copying/resizing the EXT4 I recommend to use a (live) Linux OS.

    And if you that 6TB drive will want to use with Windows too, maybe you can consider to use EXFAT partition instead of EXT4. In this case you can use your windows pc and the MiniTool Partition Manager.

    I returned back to Raspberry Pi 3 and want to have two sound outputs: HDMI (for watching movies) and HiFi-Berry Analog (for listening music, when TV is off).

    Hi, If I understod correctly, you don't need to have simultaneous audio, just to be used the HDMI for video files and the HiFi-Berry for music. For that I'm using the "Audio Profiles" addon to change automatically the audio output for different type of media (in my case HDMI for movies, TV and HiFi-Berry for music - net radio).

    However my system appears to be working ok.

    Hi, Upgrade from LE9 to LE10/11 is not recommended because too many things is changed and that often lead to different problems. But that not means always ends with problems. I suggest to you, test your system and if you don't found any issue, keep it as is now.

    Maybe just one more question, since I did the clean installation of LE 11.03 the screen resolution and sound got messed up. It only shows 1024x768, I need it to be 4k. The sound doesn't work either via HDMI, I edited the config.txt, tried "dtparam=audio=on", there were more options: ALSA: bcm2835 HDMI1. bcm2835 HDMI1 etc. and non of that worked. Does anybody know how to configure this?

    Hi, It's look like EDID (display detection) issue, ensure always to be the display powered first, check the HDMI connection...

    After you got the display worked well, it's a good idea also to save the EDID data in LE, use the "getedid create" command in SSH.

    It shutdowns ok with SSH or from GUI. The only thing is the red LED that still keeps turned on preveting me from turn the Rpi again back on after shutdown - I have to manually press the button for few seconds.

    I have a feeling, you want something what's never existed.

    I have 3 RPi's and using with LE for years. And the red LED after shutdown always remains on, and to start again always needs to do a power cycle. That is how the RPi works with LE. It's not like a "normal" PC, with stand-by part in power source and with IO chip always powered, ready to react if the power button is pressed (and with a hidden power consumption in stand-by...).

    The RPi have only a single GPIO input able to force to boot again if is activated with a button.

    If you have concerns about the "LED red light", I think that LED can be disabled in config.txt.

    If you have concerns about power consumption, after RPi "shutdown", the most part it's the power source itself (like any phone charger, have some consumption even if no phone connected), so switching of the main power can be the solution.

    sometimes I don't turn it on like for a week so it's not necessary to keep it powerd on. Also every watt counts you know - some smart things, routers, standby device etc, it adds up.

    In this case, it's a really simple solution, I'm using too:

    Just shutdown from from the LE menu, wait few seconds, till remain only the red led on, than use the switch. If "every watt counts", switch off the power source too. And this can resolve an another question too: "How to start an RPI after full shutdown". :)

    I'm even using something like this for my PC, I seen once a PC mainboard, burned badly in stand-by, because of a faulty PSU.

    I can't access the file nor with ssh or from Windows PC when I remove the SD card. How can I do that? I turned on the logging before last shutdown like that: Settings>System>Logging>Enable debug logging, shouldn't it be in the log file when I use pastekodi?

    To access files from ext4 partition: download a "live linux" like Ubuntu (or Xubuntu, is smaller), write it to a USB stick and run it from USB (without install). The easyest way is installing the "Ventoy" boot loader to a USB stick and booting the "iso" file directly (or almost any bootable iso).

    About the RPi "full shutdown", I don't know in case of RPi4, but I measured once the power consumption of my RPi3B and was around 4-5W when playing video file. So if you too using daily your RPi, I don't know if worth the effort to "shutdown" it every times. ;)