VLouis thanks, thats a workaround that might probably work.
"Probably"? Why you didn't tried? It would take only few minutes, easy to do, and needs to be done only once. Easy and done. Why this "cruciade" for GUI modification to be included special settings? Especially when could be exist an easy workaround.
... or not to use libreelec at all. i got it. i give up.
That's only up to you...
Hi, see here, maybe it's the same issue what I had: Important change in LE13 remote handling
When i use DHCP and then try to change the DNS it says its forbidden, which is a bit odd. Unfortunately, in my country we are sometimes forced to use a different DNS server than the one that is sent by the proprietary router (where nothing like dns is configurable).
Hi, Do you strictly need to use DHCP at that device? I'm thinking about, you could to start to configure the network with DHCP. After it's connected, change to "manual". The values obtained by DHCP will remain, and you change only the parameters that you want (DNS server). Maybe worth a try...
Note: Primary copies of movies, videos, etc reside on my media center. That is, rather easily retrieved if necessary. So, I'm not completely opposed to formatting the disk (e.g., ext4) and rebuilding the library. But, if there is a better way to resolve this, I'm all ears
HI, Changing to ext4 would take some time, but I think it worth it. No more issue with NTFS under Linux...
Is there a way to check that the created EDID file is actually working?
You can try to start the RPi with nothing connected to RPi's HDMI ports. Wait soime time and onnect the HDMI cable directly to the TV. If working, the saved EDID is correct. Or you can save it again: run the "getedid delete" command, power off the RPi, connect the TV directly to RPi's HDMI port, start the TV, wait few seconds and start the RPi. Only if you see the correct image on the display run the "getedid create" command.
Another workaround could be to add to the "cmdline.txt" the "video=HDMI-A-1:1920x1080@60D". That should force at the startup the standard FHD resolution. This I never tried, I'm using the "EDID save" method.
EDID is the display's capability information stored in a dedicated memory in display. The OS (linux - LibreElec) try to obtain it from display at the startup to know what picture resolution and FPS to use. Without EDID data usually the OS doesn't provide image. By saving the EDID data (getedid create command), the OS will use the saved one, regardless the display is connected or not.
Hmm, I connected the TV directly to the Pi and indeed I now get EDID=ok!
After "getedid create" I still get "weak or no HDMI signal" with the switch involved though, directly through the splitter works as it always has. In Debug I still see EDID=none..
The "getedid create" save the connected display EDID data (if is display connected and working correctly). That means, next time, at startup the RPi will use the saved EDID data to set the picture parameters, instead waiting to get it through the HDMI connection, and send image to HDMI regardless "see" a display or not.
So, up until a while ago everything worked great.
Hi, many years ago I worked on a TV repair shop and that I heard many times... Usually everything's working till... stopping working.
Raspberry Pi 4b (4GB RAM) outputting to HDMI0 (the port next to the USB-C) into a HDMI 2.1 Switch that Feeds a HDMI 2.1 Splitter from which one output goes to the TV (Hisense 55E7NQ, 2024) and the other one into an HDMI grabber that goes into HyperHDR (also running on the Pi).
That's a really "unusual" way to connect a display to an RPi. My hint is, somewhere the display (TV) EDID data is cut to reach the RPi. And because the RPi (and LE) didn't "see" the display, didn't provide picture. So, you should try at first to connect the TV directly to the RPi's HDMI0 and check it. And if in that way working, you have picture from RPi, you could try to save the TV's EDID to RPI: SSH to RPi and run the "getedid create" command (no more need for the RPi to "see" the display's properties). If you ran that command before, better to delete the previous data and run the "getedid delete" first. After that you could connect back your "strange" HDMI chain and try it. If isn't working maybe something defective, play "lego" by removing elements from chain (switch, splitter, cables) till you found what's the cause. I almost forget, start the TV first, and the RPi few seconds later to be sure it get the EDID (the "getedid create" fix that too).
The easiest way is to enable debug logging in kodi and then watch the kodi log, using tail -f .kodi/temp/kodi.log and look for the HandleKey lines while you press the remote buttons.
Thank you for your help!!!
Meantime I observed the "Windows" button ("launch_media_center") on my mce remote looks like doesn't have action assigned. I added the "ActivateWindow(Home)" function.
And changed the key id="61692" to dvd... 
Hi, I had some time to try the latest LE13 nightly on a spare RPi4B (still using the latest LE12.2 nightly - without any noticeable issue).
Short story: I'm using the same HP MCE IR remote at the all my three RPi-LE devices. Some remote buttons I remapped within "remote.xml". At the LE13, I converted to the "keyboard.xml" and all previous remaps working, excepting one: The "DVD" ("KEY_DVD" in the "mce_keyboard.toml") button I remapped to launch a bash file (basically change the audio output and load an "m3u" playlist). Used the keymap editor addon I found that key have the key id="61692" (I just assigned a new function than looked at the generated "gen.xml" file), after that used the <key id="61692">System.Exec("/storage/.kodi/userdata/PlayM3U.sh")</key> - and now is working this too well.
My questiuon would be: exist any alternative (simple) way to find the "key id" for different remote buttons?
Is it possible to once shot upgrade to the latest version, with minimal issues?
Yes... but... a simple backup is always a good thing, just in the case something goes wrong...
Another "thing": even if the upgrade should be fine, if you don't have to much stuffs installed, a fresh install on another card (or better to a new one, the flash cells in the card have a limited life, maybe the old could be at the end of life) always is better...
And a final "thing": the LE12 have no more updates. So in the case of fresh install, you should try the latest LE13 nightly, it's good for the daily use and have newer software/drivers.
Dang! Took longer than I expected until someone suggests to try "fresh install" or something like that
For the moment I do not have the time to start something from scratch, but I'll keep it in mind...
"Dang", you should do that meantime or before asking help... You don't have a hour to try a basic fresh install, an easy thing with a RPi and a spare SD card, instead waiting for others to find what's wrong with your stuff.
Any other ideas are also welcome.
I think you should have two question:
What you want to do with your LE ?
Is anything "missing" in the already in use RPi4-LE?
If you doesn't expect to handle some "very exotic" HDR-4k media files, you should stick for now with your RPi4B. One of the best software supported device, stable, silent, very small power consumption. If that RPi isn't enough for you, with an old laptop you isn't make a big deal. Even could be worse than the RPi4B. In that case you should think about a new and powerful small PC... just needs some research in the matter of the situation of the linux/LE software (driver) support.
Reason ... am at a location with a Raspberry Pi ... WiFi ... Projector without HDMI CEC ... no ethernet near unmovable projector ... no keyboard
Hi, do you have any "remote device" to controll that RPi? Even with a simple IR remote can be set the wifi connection (virtual keyboard) or just use once any cheap keyboard for first setup and disconnect after that.
I'll try swapping the USB items around to see if that solves it.
Did you tried what I wrote a week ago?
I have a spare hard drive and would like to install LibreElec on it to test it out. My current setup is a Win11/Debian dual boot desktop PC. The setup is dual boot, dual drive, so each OS has its own drive.
Hi, Another question could be: what do you want to do finally with the Kodi? To install the Kodi with their own OS (like the LE), it's worth if you want to use that PC mostly as a HTPC. If you want occasionally to use the Kodi, to watch a movie, just simple install the Kodi at one of the existent OS, and use it. The LE intended to be the minimal OS for Kodi. That means, the driver support for some PC parts is limited, when at a "big" OS (Win11/Debian) that isn't a problem.
BTW, I think you can try the LE without install, just run from the USB drive.
If I know well, that jack output isn't a "real" audio output. It's one of the GPIO of the processor, used with software PWM and a bare bone RC filter to work as an audio output. And probably that is the reason why sometimes isn't synchronized perfectly with the video screen. That is working in this way for many years. If you wait for a fix for this, or switch to something else, with better sound quality, it's up to you only.
Hi, "using the built-in 3.5mm headphone output on the Raspberry Pi" for video streams isn't the best combination. Some times ago I struggled with that, till I bought an RPi compatible audio DAC module. I don't exclude the possibility, in the future a solution for that, but low chance. The fast solution could be to buy an RPi audio DAC hat or an HDMI audio extractor module. Or if you have any USB-audio dongle around, you could try it too.
Is there anything recommended that works out of the box.
Looks like a simple "out of the box" solution doesn't exist for that. I you want to put some work in, try to start from beginning. Remove all devices from USB but the remote's dongle, install the latest 13 nightly to an SD card. Make only the basic settings and try the remote for a while. If working well, try to add back, step by step the USB devices, install addons. If you could find what trigger the issue with the remote, you are a step closer to find a solution.
