Posts by HiassofT

Thanks for reporting back, it's good to know that LE11 has working video so I guess it's one of the other (X11 or maybe kodi) changes then - nvidia driver in LE11 and LE12 seems to be the same version.

BTW: I didn't have much luck with the 535 Nvidia driver on my workstation with RTX 4060, Xorg just crashed.

I guess sending audio to a different HDMI/DP output should be possible, lots of people are doing that on RPi4.

First make sure your amp is detected as a valid video sink: the HDMI audio devices in kodi should have the name (or model number) of your TV/amp/... written next to them (eg something like "Foo Bar on HDMI" )

Also make sure video output on the HDMI/DP port is enabled - check with xrandr.

There's no audio output without video so if the cable or amp is too broken to be detected or if video output on the port is disabled it won't work.

so long,

Hias

Do a clean install without any banned addons/repos installed https://kodi.wiki/view/Official:Forum_rules/Banned_add-ons

so long,

Hias

Quote from Sal0kyn

Hi,

About AV1, does LE use [dav1d](https://code.videolan.org/videolan/dav1d) decoder? Maybe RPi5 is powerfull enough to make it run?

yes - scroll back a page, this was already discussed

Post

RE: LibreELEC support for Raspberry Pi 5

[…]

That file seems to be an 8bit one and it was a bit short.

(Code, 22 lines)

Testing showed roughly 40% CPU load and playback seemed smooth.

so long,

Hias

HiassofT

September 28, 2023 at 9:02 PM

so long,

Hias

Can you test if the LE11 nightly Generic Legacy image works?

https://test.libreelec.tv/11.0/Generic/Generic-legacy/

The graphics driver seems to be working, kodi detected the card but it's showing repeated xrandr errors - that could also be due to some X11 changes in LE12 (not really sure though).

BTW: the quadro P400 isn't that old, looks like it was released in 2017, and the current nvidia drivers still support it.

so long,

Hias

The easiest way would be if you keep running LE on the Slice and use it's Samba server. OFC that's not really a full-fledged NAS but you can share the data on your HDD.

An alternative is to install any RPi0/1 compatible Linux/NAS system and add the dtblob.bin from LE to the boot partition - then Ethernet should work fine, too.

so long,

Hias

Drop "quiet" at the end of the "linux" line and add "ssh" instead. Then you'll be able to see messages, ssh in and run "pastekodi" to upload logs.

The "ptp_kvm" message is indeed harmless, very likely there's a problem with the graphics driver.

Which graphics card (ior AMD/Intel integrated GPU) are you using?

so long,

Hias

It's actually quite easy:

create 2 partitions, a 512MB (better 1GB) FAT partition (for "boot/flash") and another one, some 5-10GB (or larger, depending on your needs) ext4 one (for "disk/storage")

Then copy everything from the FAT partition of the LE USB thumbdrive to the FAT partition on your harddisk / ssd.

Now run "blkid" (as root) and note the UUID values of your boot/flash and disk/storage partitions.

Then edit /etc/grub.d/40_custom and add a block like this - replace the UUIDs of the "--set=root ..." and "boot=UUID=..." entries with the one from your boot/flash FAT partition and the "disk=UUID=..." one with the one of your ext4 storage partition

menuentry "LibreELEC" {
    insmod part_gpt
    insmod fat
    search --no-floppy --fs-uuid --set=root 2DBA-D3CB
    linux /KERNEL boot=UUID=2DBA-D3CB disk=UUID=191250c6-b51d-4205-8832-c40a18ca24da quiet
}

now run "update-grub" and enjoy.

so long,

Hias

Either try again or disable debug logging in Kodi, reboot, do a scan and then run "pastekodi" again after a few minutes

so long,

Hias

Try again, sometimes ix.io has hickups and upload doesn't work.

BTW: it's easier to ssh in and run "pastekodi" then you can simply copy&paste the URL and don't need to type it off manually from the screen (which is error-prone)

so long,

Hias

Please provide pastekodi/pastecrash logfiles, system configuration, journal etc are extremely important, pure kodi logs don't help heere

As you didn't post any debug logs yet it's really hard to tell what's causing your issues (sorry, my crystal ball is still on repair).

A few hints though: you can easily check if your RPi is suffering from under-power issues with vcgencmd get_throttled - insufficient power supply by using random phone chargers etc is still the number one cause of "this damn thing doesn't work reliably".

If you connect some external peripherals like SSDs also have a look at their power ratings. I don't have an EVO 870 laying around on a shelf but the 500 GB EVO 850 I found in the spare box mentions "5V 1.4A" on it's label. Now keep in mind the RPi4 will at maximum deliver 1.2A (together!) on all USB ports and do the math. Even if you don't have an USB keyboard plugged in it won't be enough (and your USB->SATA adapter will need some power, too).

Some 250GB Micron and Sandisk SSDs I found in the box even need 1.6 or 1.7 amps.

Long story short: don't use any scrap parts you find somewhere in a drawer and assume they will just work although the specs say otherwise. Would you expect an RTX 4090 to work reliably in some ancient PC with a 200W PS? Certainly not, and you can't blame the PC for that.

so long,

Hias

Quote from shedrock

I don't think the SATA adapter is the issue either, because I tried 2 costly brands and same problems.

Ruling out the adapter may have been premature. They seem to be hit-and-miss, there are tons of reports on the RPi forums of various issues with lots of adapters.

Run 'lsusb', note the vendor and product IDs (the 1234:5678 number) and search for that on the RPi forums https://forums.raspberrypi.com

Also note that there are some adapters with different internal revisions and the same ID around, some revs will work and some others won't but you can't easily tell that just from the ID numbers. Yes, it's all a mess.

so long,

Hias

See instructions here: https://wiki.libreelec.tv/configuration/config_txt

cmdline.txt is on the same /flash partition which is mounted read-only by default.

so long,

Hias

Connect the RPi4 directly to the TV.

If this doesn't help add "video=HDMI-A-1:1920@1080" to the end of /flash/cmdline.txt (everything has to be on a single line!) to force HD mode and disable any 4k modes your TV/AVR may advertise.

so long,

Hias

Yes, just put it in .ssh/authorized_keys (full path /storage/.ssh/authorized_keys)

This works OOTB if you enabled ssh in the first run wizard (or later in LE settings).

so long,

Hias

Quote from tomstephens89

Am I really missing anything with DV compared to HDR10?

Dolby Labs will of course tell you so, but the reality is that you won't notice much difference unless you have display equipment costing in the 5-7 digits USD/EUR range (eg professional cinema projectors).

See also the conclusion in the rtings article https://www.rtings.com/tv/learn/hdr10-vs-dolby-vision

Quote

Ultimately, the difference between the three formats isn't that important. The quality of the TV itself has a much bigger impact on HDR. Both formats can produce much more dynamic images than what we used to see, and HDR delivers a more impactful movie experience as long as the TV displays it properly. There are limitations with HDR, though, because TVs can't reach the 10,000 nit peak brightness and all the colors HDR is capable of, but most TVs still deliver a satisfying HDR experience.

so long,

Hias

Quote from trent

The power button will maybe be good for safely rebooting when LibreElec/Kodi freezes (?). Maybe you can hold the button for 5s and it will trigger a reboot.

The power button works pretty much as on a PC: if you press it for a shot time it'll do a graceful shutdown and if it hold it for 5s it'll do a hard poweroff (needed when the system/kernel completely locked up).

so long,

Hias

Quote from shedrock

I just received my RPI4 on Friday, to find out that there's now an RPi5 on the way.

No worries, the RPi4 is still an excellent device. And as it draws less power than the RPi5 it's also easier to put it in a passively cooled case.

I can't comment on cooling requirements yet as I neither have the official active cooler nor the official active cooled case here (and OFC third-party cases or heatsinks are yet to come) but I'd guess it'd overheat (and throttle) quickly if you'd just put it into a simple plastic case without a fan.

Personally I'm a huge fan of passively, fanless, cooled systems as there are no mechanic parts that will make noise or wear out sooner or later. For RPi4 there are various proven cooling cases/heatsinks (I like the "armor case" a lot, some others prefer the Flirc case) and we'll yet have to see what will come (and work) for the RPi5.

so long,

Hias