well, I don't use a AVR, but I might have to get one...
The composite-out method doesn't work. Well it does, but as far as I can tell when you enable composite out on the Rpi4 it disables the HDMI output. But watching blinky leds is not much fun when the tv screen is blank...
Heres a thought. I am a little leary of using an HDMI splitter/grabber (cost, reports of picture quality degradation, interference with CEC and HDCP..).
I am going to try enabling the composite video output on a Rpi4, and running that into a cheap composite-to-USB capture device (mostly because I have a bunch of them lying around).
I will report my results.
maybe this is an obvious question, but if you go with an external Frame Grabber, would you need to have the usb output connected to a separate RPi running Hyperion, or could you still run Hyperion on the same RPI as LE?
so, will it be "worthwhile" to run libreelec over EMMC
absolutely. Its faster and no worries about an SD card wearing out. The base install of LE only uses about 2GB of the 8GB, so you have plenty of room for extra add-ons or whatever.
You can actually buy a Intel NUC NUC6CAY for $30 on ebay right now, it has that same processor.
I've never actually tried one, but the GPU in that celeron does have hardware based H265 decoding, so it should work for what you need.
I think my problem is solved. I disabled the CEC peripheral on both ORangePI 3 lts's, and neither has locked up over the last 7 days.
previously each one was locking up once or twice a day. I had tried different cables, power supplies, nightly beta vs stable builds, etc, nothing worked. Until I disabled CEC. all good now.
this is fine for now, because the flavor of CEC on both of those TV's never worked with Libreelec (not even with a RPI4). But I am curious if anyone out there is actually succesfully using CEC on a OPi3...
Do you use the CastagnaIT Netflix addon, YouTube addon or the fTV theme?
nope, i was seeing the problem with fresh installs, no addons. I'll post in the other thread, but for me anyway the problem seems to have been CEC.
Thanks, after doing "mount -o remount,rw /flash" and then removing "quiet" from extlinux.conf the uart does stay active after the kernel starts, but only for about 2 seconds.
The last it displays is [ 2.303742] Run /init as init process and then the uart stops updating.
The TV screen does however to continue to show the kernel messages, but only until the Kodi graphic pops up (and of course you can't save a log from the text on the tv screen...)
I also had to change ttysl to ttys0.
Thanks again!
is to solder UART pins and connect serial adapter to it. With that, you can monitor kernel complaints real time
Not sure about tanix, but on my OrangePI3 (same allwinner H6 SOC) LE seems to nerf the UART port. You see a few lines of text during the u-boot process, you get to the "Starting kernel ..." message and then thats the last thing you see come out the serial port.
I assume something in the kernel params disables the UART? Any way around that?
Not sure if it's the same issue,
Just curious, are you using CEC? I disabled CEC under peripherals for these two units and they haven't locked up in the last 48 hours. Of course, thats not too long, could just be a coincidence...
I have several Opi3LTs that lock up and need to be power cycled every couple days. Is there any built in software or hardware watchdogs in the H6 or in this SBC that can be enabled?
I'm looking at building/buying some kind of external hardware based watchdog, but thought I should first check for an easier solution. Of course, ideally I can identify the root cause of the lockups, but thats a topic for another thread... I've been ruling out overheating, power supply and cabling issues, but no luck yet. I'm starting to think that the Opi3lts is so cheap for a reason.
I tried that, and it worked! Thank you!
Everytime I change the system name under Settings>LibreELEC>System> it reverts back to default after a reboot.
Another thread about this problem recommended also changing the name under Settings/Services/General/System. I tried that, and set the name the same in both locations, but the name still reverts (the name in Settings/Services/General/ doesnt revert, only the first one).
fwiw the image i'm running is "LibreELEC-H6.aarch64-12.0-nightly-20230527-557e821-orangepi-3-lts".thanks.
The feature is still in active development and the code for it has not been merged yet
Did this feature ever get implemented?
I can also confirm that the latest version of the Amazon VOD works (as long as you also install WideVine). But if you can excuse another mild hijack, I have a question for other users of it.
Once I start an amazon video it plays fine. But navigating through the folders to browse whats available is so painfully sloooow. I have a fresh install with default settings, is there some setting i need to tweak to speed things up?
I never used the addon before this latest outage, so I don't have any experience to compare it to (ie was it always this slow). Frustrating because Amazon Prime on the crappiest of barely-smart Tv is quick and responsive.
afaik audio passthrough has been working on all builds for a while now.
as for choice of board the Raspberry Pi4 is likely to have the best overall community support and quality.
but imho the Orange Pi 3 LTS is much cheaper and will provide the same performance as any of those boards. but then again I'm biased because i have several OP3s, and the more other people I can convince to buy them the more likely it will receive long term libreelec support 
Raspberry Pi 4 has the best support, but its hard to find/or expensive. I have had great success with Orange Pi 3 LTS, its cheap and available, has built in eMMC and plays everything just as well (imho) as the rpi4. Only thing with the OPI3 is that it won't have wifi support on LE. Either way you would want to get heatsinks/fan for either one. That giant heatsink that comes with the N2 is a nice feature.
how does that behave if you use the same remote you use for your tv ?
depends how lucky you are. It worked well with very simple TVs that had very complicated remotes. Often a TV remote will have play/pause/stop buttons that would only work if you happened to buy a vcr or DVD player of the same brand. Those buttons can safely be mapped for this kind of use. I think on my old Toshiba (long dead) there was a button or function to put the remote in DVD mode. The volume buttons would still control the TV, but play/pause stop and even the arrows and menu buttons would not do anything to the TV in that mode, so i mapped their codes to be by my psuedo-flirc. I just had to keep reminding family members to put the remote in DVD mode to use the raspberry/Kodi.
