Running LE (12.0.2) on a RPi 4 with the jellyfin addon (version 10.10.1) installed. I checked the GitHub site and the jellyfin server is several versions higher (10.10.7) than what is installed on LE. How would one go about updating the jellyfin server to the latest version?
Posts by tkocou
-
-
I uploaded some new videos for the jellyfin server to play and it reported a fatal error by the jellyfin player. Checking against other videos which played okay, I focused on the encoding of the 'faulty' videos. Turns out the jellyfin player did not like the way the subtitles were encoded in the videos. A word to the wise, don't assume the server is faulty. Check the video encodings.
-
Last Update:
I ended up plugging in a monitor and keyboard into the RPi 4 and using the Kodi interface, I enabled the web (http) access. I was disappointed with the web interface as it lacked the fine granularity available with the hardware interface (ie. monitor & keyboard)
-
Found the SSH version of instructions.
https://kodi.wiki/view/Web_interface
Look for the section labeled: Manually enabling remote control
Update: looks like the file reverts back once a reboot has been done. I'll followup later to see if the file gets updated when the normal kodi access is changed via the monitor / keyboard.
-
libreelec (v12.0.1) and SSH enabled, Jellyfin server: To access the default Kodi control screen, I would have to hook up a monitor and keyboard to the RPi 4. I would like to have the same access but using a web browser. That way, it saves time verses having to connect the hardware, do the work and then disconnect the hardware.
Question: is it possible to enable a web browser access using a SSH terminal, and if so, would one use the default HTTP port or would it be a different port?
-
Equipment: RPi4 running LE 10.0.2
I had a peculiar streaming video buffering issue. I would be watching video addon #1, then switch to video addon #2. After switching to video addon #2, any videos selected for viewing would have terrible buffering. Rebooting LE would fix the problem.
The reverse was true as well. Switching from video addon #2 to video addon #1, video addon #1 would experience terrible video buffering. Rebooting LE would fix the problem until I switched to a different streaming addon.
After a lot of troubleshooting, I determined that the root cause was in LE.
Solution: For some unknown reason, the networking setting of LE was using both the wired connection as well as the wireless connection. I turned off the wireless connection and used only the wired connection. The video buffering issue went away. While I have not verified this, I suspect that unplugging the wired connection and using the wireless connection would have fixed the video buffering issue as well.
-
Pretty sure 8GB is overkill for LibreELEC, 2GB should be absolutely fine. Decoding video really doesn't use much memory, and the JeOS itself is very light on resources.
It is only a recommendation, not a mandatory thing. True that 8GB might be considered overkill, until one finds an addon which dies in the 2GB RPI due to lack of memory. The other consideration is this: has anyone successfully upgraded a 2GB RPI to a 4GB (or 8GB) RPI without replacing the unit? It is better to have more memory and not need all of it than to need more memory and not have it available.
-
Is the Marantz able to accept a bluetooth input connection? BTW, the Marantz is a nice item.
Is the Snapserver/Snapclient an addon to LE?
-
Display More
Hi
I have an Odroid C2 that I have been using a media center with LibreElec and later CoreElec, but it is old and the HDMI is giving up. It gets overheated and the signal randomly gets lost until I give it a break. So I want to buy a new device that will act only as media center with LibreElec. What I need:
- 4k HDR support (it will be connected to a Samsung Q80R).
- Gigabit ethernet, no storage will be attached (source is a local Jellyfin server plus Youtube and other streaming, but no Netflix or any other DRM streming service).
- No need for DRM, no Netflix or similar (as mentioned above)
- Interested in lowest power consumption, specially when idle.
For what I have read in the forums the two main candidates are the rPi 4b and the Odroid N2+. This is only my conclussion from reading this forum so I am open to other suggestions. For what I've read, the rPi 4b got 4k HDR support recently with HEVC but there are still a few minor quirks left to solve (although since it is such a popular platform they should be solved timely). The Odroid N2+ is a bit older but also fits all the requirements, apparently has great audio out (which I will use in the future) and is avaiable to buy while it might take a few months for the rPi 4b to be back in stock.
I would like to know:
1. Is there any other device that fits my needs and I have missed?
2. Are there any other advatages/disadvantages the rPi 4b or the N2+ have on each other for my use case?
3. I would be interested on a comparisson of power consumption of each device, specially when idle as that is how it spends most of the time.
Thanks
If you decide to go with a RPi4, I recommend the 8GB board. Linux, in general (to include LE), runs faster with more memory. So software decodes work better. Also, give due consideration to the cooling of the RPi4 as it will get very warm without adequate cooling.
-
RPI 4 hardware. The overall upgrade from LE9 went relatively smoothly. However, the one addon, Amazon VOD, has dependency issues. I did some research on the issue. The Amazon VOD addon is dependent on the "Soup Sieve and BeautifulSoup" modules and both have dependency issues with xbmc.python. Soup Sieve is looking for xbmc.python version 2.26.0. BeautifulSoup is looking for xbmc.python version 2.25.0.
Question 1: LE10, what version of xbmc.python does LE10 ship with?
Question 2: Is there a way to resolve the xbmc.python dependency with the mentioned modules (by upgrading, perhaps)? Or do I need to register the dependency problem with the creator of Amazon VOD addon?
I do have a paid account with Amazon Prime.
-
Could you be more specific? Do you mean that using only one USB3 port does not hinder the performance but using both USB3 ports might affect overall performance?
what kind of performance issues are seen? I mean does it affect Kodi UI rendering performance or file transfer etc.?
I'm curious as I use USB SSD with full UAS support and I have both USB3 ports in use and I have not yet really observed any performance loss, I might just have missed it
This limitation is ONLY for the Argon One case using an external HD with the internal SSD. I suspect that the SSD requires the full bandwidth afforded by the USB3 port. Thus my advise is to exclude the second USB3 port.
If you plug in the external HD into the second USB3 port, anytime you play a video file from the external HD, the video player software exhibits a "stop and go" behavior. The same behavior happens with streaming video from Netflix or Amazon Prime or HBO plus, etc.
If you are using a different hardware arrangement, then the USB3 port probably won't be an issue.
Display Morewhat's this? For having the USB connectors on an extension cable of sorts?
Rather on the bottom half of the case, I combined the small 'A' plug to 'A' plug USB adapter (which comes with the Argon One case kit) with an 'A' plug to 'A' socket extension cable to bring out the USB connection
This next part seems dubious.
It didn't work then 'magically'
Worked.
This makes me second guess considering an SSD drive with kodi.
No offence just the tutorial makes the process seem not easy and not reliable.
The tutorial makes more sense if you watch the referenced videos first.
At the time that I wrote this article, I used an extension USB cable. I did not have a 'A' plug to 'A' plug cable. An 'A' to 'A' cable can be purchased from Amazon.com. The reason for using an 'A' to 'A' cable is to treat the SSD like a thumb drive on your desktop / laptop computer. Due to the physical port of the Argon One case, You cannot just plug in a standard USB cable.
If you viewed the videos, you would know that the first time the Raspberry Pi 4 is configured for booting from USB, the Raspberry Pi 4 will attempt multiple times to boot from an SD card. Once it determines that the SD card is missing, then it goes to the USB drive (SSD drive in the Argon One case). Thus the appearance of not booting and then magically booting.
Display MoreI'm coming back to this because my fan is finally wearing down on my ice tower.
It's producing a high pitched whine.
If I get this argon case. Which ssd drive do I need to get. Presumably the capacity or even brand has to be compatible.
Second.
I notice some are modifying their argon case.
Is this necessary/difficult?
The default speed of the fan in the Argon One case is fairly quiet. Do you need to modify the case? I'm using the case "as is" and it acts a a very good heat-sink for the Raspberry Pi 4. My opinion only, no need to modify the case. Up to you whether to modify or not.
Pi hut sell an WD Green M2 240GB SSD for this set up, I didn't need that much capacity so goa a 120GB, don't know if the Pi4 has a maximum capacity it can see. Haven't got around to the build jet. You will need to contact Argon they will send you a link to driver software for using the Argon with LibreElec. I think I'll be coming back to this thread soon!
The SSD must be a SATA style. I'm using the Kingston model referenced in the videos and 128GB never gets filled up for my use. LibreElec runs FAST from the SSD.
-
One other item to consider. I found through extensive testing that the spare USB 3 port should be left unused. Any device plugged into the spare USB 3 port can have a negative impact on the RPi 4 performance.
-
Display More
Hi,
My Libreelec/Kodi is running on an RPI3, LibreELEC 9.2.6.
System has been running for a couple years, no real problems. Love it.
Switched from a 500GB HDD to 500GB SSD today.
External drive keeps disconnecting/reconnecting - "Successfully removed storage device", then a minute or so later "Mounted Removable storage device". Over and over.
Old drive was in an external enclosure with both USB and separate power connector. New drive is in an enclosure with a single USB-C type connector.
Is it possibly a power supply issue? I would think an SSD's power consumption would be pretty low and should run off a USB-C connector.
Supply says it provides 2.4A. If supply current is the issue, would increasing the capacity of the supply help, or is it a limitation of what the RPI can put out on it's USB connector?
If increasing the supply is the answer, any suggestions? Seems hard to find supplies that go above 2.4A that aren't big mulit-port things. Just need a single block with a single output.
Thanks all!
ToddYou have described the symptoms of a struggling power circuit. Check the power requirements of the SSD. You may want to upgrade your Raspberry Pi 3 to a RPi 4 with a 3.5 amp power supply.
-
Thank you for the update.
-
Nevermind. I read the announcement about version 10 betas. The upgrade (9.2.7 to 10.0 general release) will have to wait until the addon repositories catch-up to the newer Python 3 coding.
-
Any suggestions for the subject line?
-
Display More
what's the cooling and therefore over clocking potential of the argon case.
I ask this because the ice tower can bring the temperature to 25 degrees idle.
Which is pretty fantastic as it's barely a few degrees above ambient.
The cooling potential is huge. I have had pc levels of speed.
Do you really think the argons faster drive (ssd supposedly being ten times faster) is a good trad.
e-off to the CPU speed being over lockable to 2.1 GHz?
I'm sceptical that a faster drive is better than a faster CPU.
Especially in cpu intensive tasks like certain video formats like 4K and upscaling which the majority of the burden is on the CPU NOT the drive.
Of course aesthetics are another thing entirely and I'll concede the ice tower isn't the most smart or compact case.
But can we really say the argon case is "the best"
Everyone thinks they can Google the best TV/bike/mobile these days but always it's a matter of personal choice.
If you're going to be writing a lot of data to the pi yeah you'll need a faster drive. (Although can we not connect an SSD drive to a ice tower fitted pi?
But pretty much any other task will benefit from a faster CPU which the tower delivers and the cooler temperatures will make it more stable too.
Nothing wrong with using an Ice Tower cooler. As you say, it helps a lot when you choose to overclock. I agree that the Ice Tower would be an excellent choice for the overclocking aficionado.
The biggest I/O bottleneck for the Pi 4 is the SD card. Overclocking the CPU simply masks the issue. A normal CPU clock speed means lower CPU temperatures compared to an overclocked CPU. And with the Argon One case, CPU overclocking is still available as an option. I simply choose to not use it.
Generally speaking, using an SD card to boot from means that the LibreELEC will run from the SD card. Since the SD card is the I/O bottleneck, by extension, the overall Pi 4 I/O is bottlenecked regardless whether the CPU is overclocked or not. Granted, there is an older method where one could boot from SD card and switch over to an external USB device. However, one still has a sprawl to deal with. The Argon One case packages all the essential items into the one case making a neat presentation, especially in front of one's TV as a media center.
With the latest firmware update to the Pi 4, the advantage allowed by the Argon One case is to boot LibreELEC from a SSD without needing a SD card. As far as I have been able to determine, everything runs faster from the SSD. I can't say for certain, however I'll bet that 4K and upscaling will work faster as well.
-
why is that the best case? And isn't an SSD drive pretty much the same soeed as SD cards?
....
According to the testing done in the referenced videos, the SSD is around 10X faster than the fastest SD card. I concur with the results published in the videos. And the Pi 4 did not have to be overclocked!
The Ice Tower which you reference will not fit into the average Pi case. Furthermore, it does nothing to help cleanup the cabling. The Argon One case brings out the cabling connections to the back end, there by helping the cabling look nicer.
One other piece of information: if you are using this setup as a media center for your TV and you wish for the audio to play from the TV, connect the TV HDMI cable to the HDMI connection farthest from the power button. If you plug in the TV HDMI cable to the other connection, the video will display fine, but you probably won't hear any audio.
