maple I've noticed that you've mixed very different topics into this thread. Now you struggle to describe the priority among them. To make life easier for all of us, I close this thread. Please open new threads for each topic.
Posts by Da Flex
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LIRC works, it's just not part of the GUI anymore. Setup like our Wiki says.
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Those work in the same way as VNC would (if it worked) to let you see all the Kodi settings screens and make changes? Or are they just remote control apps (which would not really be helpful)? But anyway, I have been using VNC from a MacOS desktop computer, didn't really want to have to use a phone or tablet, I would think it would be pretty hard to read the settings on a phone screen anyway unless you have eagle eyes.
Those apps have specific GUI's to edit Kodi settings, and they access Kodi's web interface. They are much more than just RC. I'm no Mac user, but I bet there is a way to run such apps on a Mac's big screen, too. It should be no problem to connect to Kodi's web interface from there.
But as I said getting VNC to work is not my primary concern, I mainly am wanting to find out about the LIRC part.
Go to the forums main page, and search for keyword "LIRC". Happy reading!

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I am NOT wanting to be able to watch video remotely, just to be able to easily view/change Kodi options from another computer. I assume you can ssh into LibreELEC to manually change configuration files using nano, but that really doesn't show you the options in Kodi's interface. But anyway that is not my primary concern, my real concern is whether LIRC can be made to work, or if there is some alternative way to do the things I have mentioned using my remote.
The easiest way to solve both problems is using a phone / tablet with a Kodi remote app, like Kore or Yatse.
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Also test latest LE 11 from here: https://test.libreelec.tv/11.0/RPi/RPi4/
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In other words: We need a sample video that triggers the error, and is legit to be published.
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So seems like there's a daily quota for addon installs, and it's fairly low.
Yep, that's the current workaround. Sorry.
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Please provide a full debug log.How to post a log (wiki)1. Enable debugging in Settings>System Settings>Logging2. Restart Kodi3. Replicate the problem4. Generate a log URL (do not post/upload logs to the forum)
use "Settings > LibreELEC > System > Paste system logs" or run "pastekodi" over SSH, then post the URL link -
Moreover, I do not really want to drill holes on the tvbox's housing. And in case I did not mention it earlier, it also has a small square ~8*8cm steel plate (2-3mm thick) mounted under its top so as to weight more. Removing that will probably make it 90% lighter

They gave you a useless metal block instead of a reset button. Marketing geniuses...

You just need one hole to reach the button. Nobody will see.

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Not sure where to even begin to troubleshoot where my issue is...any help greatly appreciated.
Please provide a full debug log.How to post a log (wiki)1. Enable debugging in Settings>System Settings>Logging2. Restart Kodi3. Replicate the problem4. Generate a log URL (do not post/upload logs to the forum)
use "Settings > LibreELEC > System > Paste system logs" or run "pastekodi" over SSH, then post the URL link -
As for the reset button addition, I am still waiting for the neighbor to buy me a button and I will then give him the tvbox to solder it.
Ask for a small round button. So you can drill a hole with that size, and glue it on from inside the case.
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No big deal, you just wanted to help. LE only accepts one user on SSH, which is root. So there is only one home directory.
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That's not an RTL chip number though. Try Googling..
Right, with the ETV ending it should be your guess.
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chewitt I'm reading RTL8129ETQ. Just in case you have extra offers for this.
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Where do you mean by "on top"?
Upper side of the PCB (where the chips are).
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Yep, PCB tracks on top seem to proof my theory. You can solder now.

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Second pic has great quality. Can you do the same from the other side? It might help to identify soldering points.
PS: It's probably not necessary to make another pic. It seems like it has no "reset" label anyway. The three soldering points from your tagged pic seem to be right, because two of them are grounded (see backside). So the upper one (on the tagged pic), and one of the others should be right.
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Better pics from both sides would help. Then we could see all chip labels, and the PCB label of the reset button. That's essential.