Posts by dishe

Quote from Digidog

Try running a Linux Distro in live mode from a usb key. It will not harm your Windows install and it will allow you to access the other partition on your SD card and hopefully save your userdata folder so you can stuff it back later using the same method or with Windows over the network through LibreELEC's samba share of said folder(s). ... With a Win 10 machine you might need to find a Linux Distro that supports EUFI Booting.

Oh, this is a good idea! I actually have a laptop running Ubuntu that I keep around for stuff like this (reading/writing/copying between stuff like OSX Journal drives and NTFS, etc). Hopefully that partition isn't damaged or corrupted. So all I need to back up is a folder called userdata?

So sad to see there won't be any more updates to this build, but very much appreciate everything we have already!

I haven't been around here in a while, but I signed on hoping to find a solution to a problem. I have a remote outlet that the entertainment system is plugged into, and it was accidentally power cycled on/off a few times by a toddler holding the remote. Now Libreelec won't boot. It shows the Libreelec logo and loading screen, but seems to be stuck there. Its version 8.1, so I could really use an update anyway, but I'm guessing the power cycling corrupted something on my SD card (still have Android original firmware on NAND). Taking out the card I can still boot back into Android, so I think its just the card.

If I put the SD card into my Windows10 computer, I can see two partitions, one of which Windows can read (which I think makes sense, as the other partition is linux right?). The files seem intact in the part I can read. I know I could probably reformat and start over, but I had gotten all my plugins *just so*, and it took me a long time to get it all the way I wanted. I'm hoping there's a way I can just replace the libreelec system, perhaps with the newer 8.2, and get it working while keeping my data intact. Might be a long shot, but hoping it is worth trying. Does anyone have any suggestions or advice?

Does bluetooth audio work with this?
My Beelink MXQ s805 worked with my BT headphones when I wanted to avoid the sound (waking up sleeping kids at home). Can't seem to find anything in any of the menus for this. If support for internal BT is missing, I also have a USB bt dongle I can use. Or is Bluetooth audio not supported at all?

EDIT:
Never mind! I figured it out. I had to first turn ON bluetooth in a different menu in order for it to then pair with a device, and then I could go back into audio settings and change it to Pulse / BT, which worked great. But it's a rather silly three step process in different menus to make this work, rather than a simple toggle.
Bottom line, it WORKS so I'm good for now. Thanks!

Update:
The disp_cap_hack solved the missing options issue. I now have access to 50, 60, and 24hz in 1080p and more. I tried them, the 24hz mode works! But it is still doing the display change dance even though I have turned automatic refresh rate changing to OFF.
For some reason starting and stopping and seeking within the video still tries to change the display rate, even though it isn't actually changing. For example, in this case going from 24hz to... 24hz again. If I toggle the options on and off for automatic rate change and reboot the box, it sometimes sticks. But other times it comes back, and its really annoying. Any ideas on that?
Hardware is a red striped beelink MXQ.

Thanks for the response, Kszaq! I think it IS some sort of EDID issue, as I know my outputs can display more than just 60hz. Oddly enough, even though the refresh rate was locked to 60, it would STILL blank the display and disconnect/reconnect when starting a 24p video, especially when seeking through the timeline, even though it would just reconnect at 60hz again. Why was it bothering to attempt the switch if the box was locking it to 60hz the whole time? It seems so strange.

In other news, I managed to trick the box by plugging it into a different HDMI device on boot up, which then presented me with 60hz or 50hz in the settings menu. Still no 24, but at least it wasn't locked to only 60hz. I set it to 50hz, the screen refreshed and reported being 50 now. I then plugged it back into the other devices that were previously "locked", and it remained on 50hz (monitor and projector's info screen confirmed it was now at at 50, even though neither had given me the option previously to set it). So, EDID is clearly not being represented properly as I can use it in modes it usually does not present me with. I still can't get it to offer 24hz however, which is the whole goal here.

If I can't get 24hz, I'm assuming my best option is to stick with 60 since the pulldown is cleaner than trying to conform it to 25, right? I still find it odd that when it is "locked" at 60, it would continue to try changing the refresh and resetting the HDMI connection, even though it was going from 60 back to 60 again. Very odd. I'm going to look at that link now, I did all this today before I saw your response.

Actually, I'm starting to wonder if the frame rate changes work in the first place. My projector reports still being 60hz after the blank out / refresh. Manually changing the refresh rate seems disabled in settings as well, even when connected to my monitor- greyed out at 60hz. Limitation of the hardware? I'm pretty sure my projector supports HDMI 1.4, which includes 24hz as a refresh rate option, so I'm inclined to think its the box. And if it isn't changing the refresh rate, why is it bothering to update the screen and disconnect/reconnect each time?

I tried turning off refresh rate changes (set it from On Start/Stop to OFF), and turned off the delay when screen refreshes setting as well. But it still blanks out and disconnects for a moment, even while seeking within the video. I'm starting to feel like I'm stuck with it like this.

Running 8.2-8.1.5 after reading about that being a particularly stable version on my Beelink/RedStripe MXQ. So much better than Kodi on Android ever was!
My only issue is what I believe to be refresh rate changes blanking the screen. I'm not sure if this is a problem with this build or just the way Krypton works in general. Maybe someone here can point me in the right direction to minimize this.

I'm using it with a projector, and it seems to blank the display and reconnect when selecting a video, and again when ending the video and returning to the GUI. I'm under the impression this is because the GUI wants to display at 60fps, while the video I selected is 23.97. Heck, it even blanks the display when seeking within the video, as I'm guessing it tries to change the refresh rate back to the GUI when the playback was temporarily interrupted, only to change it again when the new position plays. When using on a computer monitor, this seems like a minor blank screen, but frame rate changes on the projector are registered as a source disconnect/connect, which makes my projector a little nuts. The splash screen comes up, a big NO SIGNAL banner comes on, then it checks possible connections before deciding the HDMI port is good again and reconnecting, along with a bunch of other messages about optimal resolution, etc, which go away after 2-3 seconds. It also seems to create more heat as I hear the projector's fan ramp up RPM during this process. All in all, its not horrible if this happens now and then, but it seems like I would really like to keep these blank outs to a minimum and I feel like they are happening far too often now.

For example, when returning to the GUI without any video playing, why must it go back to 60fps? Can't it remain at 23.97 or whatever it was just at unless another video requires a different frame rate? Like, if I'm watching 3-4 videos that are all encoded at 24p, why can't it just remain at that refresh rate the entire session, GUI and all? I feel like it is aggressively trying to change the frame rate whenever possible for no good reason at all. Especially the bit about seeking within the video. Makes it particularly hard to find a position to jump to when the display goes bonkers each time.

And yes, before you ask, I tried playing with the Adjust Display Refresh Rate settings. It is currently set to Start/Stop, but I'd rather a "start and stay there until a video needs something else" setting, rather than have it go back everytime the video stops. I tried setting it to all other options as well, but it seems to behave the same way no matter what I set it to there so I'm starting to suspect this setting is broken and/or doesn't really do anything. Or maybe I'm doing it wrong? Sync Playback to Display is currently off, as I want to try and keep it using the correct frame rate for the video (one of the reasons I like this over the Android Kodi). I tried seeing if I could change the Kodi refresh rate so that the GUI at startup maybe wouldn't require fps changes, but that option appears to be grayed out.
Am I SOL? Is this just how LibreElect/Kodi 17/Etc is supposed to work? Or is there something I can do to minimize the fps refreshes?